Immortalized by names such as Trollat, Chave, and Gonon, Saint-Joseph has become an “it” region among value-hunting sommeliers. When sourced from the right spots (as today’s wine is) and vinified in a traditional, natural manner (ditto), Saint-Joseph is not what you settle for when you don’t feel like shelling out for the Côte-Rôtie or Hermitage—it’s often, as today’s wine is, every bit as good as those others.
We’ve come to expect this from the likes of Gonon, whose wines have some of the Northern Rhône’s most tightly allocated treasures, and we saw it in today’s 2015 from Gonon’s under-the-radar neighbor in the village of Mauves, Jean-Claude Marsanne. Loaded with black, brambly fruit flavors and a profound mineral underpinning from the granite soils of the zone, this is Syrah for the true aficionados out there: If you love the wines of the Northern Rhône and haven’t heard of Marsanne (the vintner, not the grape), now is the time to get acquainted. This 2015 gave me that “new sheriff in town” feeling—Marsanne is a Syrah stylist to watch!
Although there’s been some buzz about him among Rhône fanatics, Marsanne is still fairly new to the American wine scene. A fourth-generation winemaker, he sold his wines to private clients and restaurants in France (and still does; only 5% of production is exported). Availability is minuscule and most of what is available on the market from Marsanne is the 2016 vintage. I cannot over-emphasize the greatness of the 2015 vintage in the Northern Rhône. Not to belittle 2016, but the 2015 reds flaunt Syrah in all its glory, and it doesn’t get more glorious than Mauves. Revered for its highly decomposed granite soils, old stalwart vines, and lightbulb hillsides, Mauves is where the best estates connect like dominoes on the western bank of the Rhône River.
The Marsanne family was described by Rhône expert John Livingstone-Learmonth as “...always discreet, mainly because they were so often in the vines rather than entertaining in the cellar.” This perfectly sums up their unpretentious, hands-on approach. Jean-Claude began working at the estate full-time in 1991, adopting the practices of his father, Jean, which may seem trendy now but were nothing more than ordinary—old casks for aging, natural yeasts, organic farming, vineyard work by hand. But it wasn’t until the last few years, when Jean truly relinquished control to Jean-Claude, that the wines have softened their rugged edges, becoming more elegant and quietly finding their way into the hands of the most enthusiast collectors and sommeliers.
While the domaine is not certified organic, it is a study in organics and natural methods. Today’s wine is a result of labor and patience. Unfined and unfiltered, it is an expression of rich old vines, up to a staggering 80 years-old, and meticulous, humble work by hand. Hand-picked and hand-sorted, the grapes begin fermentation in stainless steel, then the process gently continues in small, older barrels (about 3 weeks). Aging takes place in an assortment of barrels: used 600-liter demi-muids, older barriques, and 15% new barriques for 12 months.
I flip-flop between what kind of glass to use for Syrah (sometimes Bordeaux, other times Burgundy), but due to the lushness of the 2015 vintage, go with a wider-mouthed Bordeaux stem. The core is almost opaque with deep garnet-ruby and purple, moving to a rim with similar but brighter tones. It is invigorating on the nose, with more fruit-forward aromas, at first—black raspberries, blackberries, wild strawberries, and the flesh of dark plums. But then, the savory notes roll and lift: grilled bread, warm stones, licorice, and a whisper of violets and cardamom. The palate is powerful, textural, but moves with softness and grace. Tannins are firm but closer to supple than gritty, unfurling Syrah’s vortex of flavor. I wouldn’t call the acid high, but somewhere closer to moderate-plus, just enough to make you say, “I’ll have another glass, please.” Northern Rhône Syrah is a muse for anything off-the-grill and meaty. Every home cook has a go-to hamburger recipe, but no one knows the intricacies of grilling like Steven Raichlen. Take his advice and let today’s Saint-Joseph from JC Marsanne be your secret sauce.
