From time to time, you may hear someone refer to Grenache as “the Pinot Noir of the south” and you wouldn’t be wrong to wonder just what the heck they’re talking about. Grown mostly in hot climates and usually blended, Grenache’s prettier, more perfumed side makes relatively rare appearances—which is why today’s well-priced Montsant from Joan d’Anguera such a noteworthy achievement.
Château Rayas, in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, is the lodestar for true Grenache believers, and it’s impossible not to make the connection when tasting d’Anguera’s 2017 “Altaroses.” Yes, there are rosy aromas, and a brightness to the fruit that suggests the grapes were grown at some altitude. It’s a Mediterranean red of uncommon finesse and lively energy—like Rayas—but also a screaming bargain. It’ll make a believer out of you.
And if you’re not familiar with the Montsant DO (Denominación de Origen), “Altaroses” is a fantastic (if slightly atypical) introduction. Located in northeast Spain, not far from the coastal city of Tarragona, the vineyards of Montsant wrap around a steep mountainside just downslope from Priorat. The rapid rise to fame of Priorat’s wines has had a trickle-down effect for Montsant, which has been touted as the less-expensive “little brother” appellation (much like Vacqueyras/Gigondas versus Châteauneuf-du-Pape). Most reds in Priorat and Montsant alike are rich, often inky blends of Grenache (Granatxa in Catalán) and Carignan (Carinyena), so you do indeed get a lot of wine for the money in Montsant; what you get in Altaroses, which is a varietal Grenache, is a more detail and aromatic lift and a little less mass. I, for one, am all for it.
The Joan d’Anguera estate was originally founded in 1820, in the village of Darmós. The brothers who run it today, Josep and Joan, represent the seventh generation. They farm a total of about 40 hectares of vineyards split into four parcels, all of them Certified Biodynamic (Demeter) since 2012. Like so many new-generation Spanish vintners, the brothers were blessed with some seriously old vines to work with, and made organic and biodynamic farming their first order of business upon taking over in 2000. Their entire range of wines is characterized by exceptional purity and finesse, owing not just to healthy, naturally farmed fruit but to low-intervention practices in the cellar.
Although Montsant does have a good amount of the fractured slate soil found in Priorat, there’s more of a mix throughout, including the sandy clay and limestone found in the vineyards that supply Altaroses. This wine is what the d’Angueras call their “village” Montsant, fermenting it in concrete tanks with whole grape clusters included and aging it in well-used French oak barriques for 12 months. The whole-cluster fermentation seems to have imparted tension and backbone to the softly tannic Grenache, which in today’s 2017 exhibits its characteristic medium cherry-red color with hints of pink and orange. The aromas are a perfumed mix of juicy wild strawberries, cherry kirsch, blood orange, wild herbs, roses, and a touch of licorice. These are all confirmed on the buoyant, medium-bodied palate; it’s hard to find a Grenache-driven wine from anywhere with this kind of lively energy. The tannins are fine and lend a slight and pleasing crunch to a wine that has all its elements in beautiful balance. It bears repeating that this complexity and class is all yours for just $25, and it’s ready to roll right now: Decant it 15-30 minutes before serving at 60-65 degrees in Burgundy stems with a Spanish-inspired pork preparation like the attached. This wine is a truly great find, so treat it to something nice!
