As for the name, Dauvissat, well, it’s a common one in Chablis. This isn’t *that* Dauvissat (although Didier previously worked for *that* Dauvissat), but they carry the surname with confidence—their wines are downright delicious and far more affordable. Founded in 1987 by Agnès and Didier Dauvissat (now run by their son, Florent), this small estate comprises roughly 25 acres of carefully selected, south-facing vineyards. Due to their limited range of terroir-expressive wines, the Dauvissat’s farmstead property has attracted its share of critical praise, yet the wines remain under-the-radar and, as a result, mercifully priced. 

This Petit Chablis is farmed from several 25-year-old parcels that are split between the western village of Beine and just above the cluster of Chablis’ seven Grand Crus. After grapes are sorted in the vineyard, they undergo both alcoholic and malolactic fermentation in stainless steel tanks. The wine then ages on its fine lees and in bottle for 12 months before release, resulting in a fresh, ultra-precise, high-toned Chardonnay.

Dauvissat’s 2017 Petit Chablis reveals a bright straw-yellow in the glass with silver reflections and the faintest green hue, but sight is only so enticing—it’s all about aromas and taste. The nose is superbly exquisite and flawlessly clean: salt-preserved lemon, Kaffir lime blossoms, and white pear lead the charge, followed by a second wave of fresh acacia, green apple core, chalk, and finely crushed oyster shell. As always, I’d love to have wines from Agnès et Didier Dauvissat turn up in a blind tasting. This is unmistakable high-grade Chablis, with a vibrantly pronounced structure. After 15-30 minutes of air, it’s wonderful to enjoy at 50-55 degrees in Burgundy stems. The most exciting aspect of this Petit Chablis is something that cannot yet be experienced—its ageability. You can hold this bottle back for several years and it will evolve into a real savory beauty that will evoke notes of Premier Cru Chablis. There’s something about the combination of yellow-green fruit, delicate florals, creamy textures, and crushed-stone minerality that triggers an almost Pavlovian reaction when this classic label appears. Enjoy this value-driven gem while it lasts, and make sure one bottle is opened beside a platter of raw oysters. Cheers!