Since the turn of the century, the red-hot appellation of Sta. Rita Hills has exploded onto the scene and attracted major talent that none could’ve ever imagined. Most notably, Sine Qua Non and Sea Smoke, two cult labels that are now basking in worldwide fame and categorically high pricing. But I say let them soak up the spotlight because my focus lies behind the curtains on Chanin’s wildly buzzed-about Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays.
His wines are a savory case study on soil, the subtleties of a grape, and the mastery of minimalist, land-before-hand winemaking. In just over a decade, Chanin’s Grand Cru-equivalent gems have quietly entered the conversation for America’s best, which is vividly apparent in today’s back-vintage release of 2013 “Sanford & Benedict.” Home to the oldest Pinot Noir vines in Santa Barbara, this prized site is among California’s most hallowed and cherished. As such, Chanin has captured a gorgeously honest expression of terroir in this bottle—and it’s a striking one at that. Each rotating artistic label is hand-crafted by Gavin, so on top of his wines being incredibly sought after, his paintings and labels have also become somewhat of a hot collectors’ item. Inside and out, this 2013 truly is a masterful work of art that illustrates why this micro-batch project has launched into stardom. Quantities are extremely limited.
Gavin is the king of his craft when it comes to Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, but there’s no denying he’s a full-blooded jack of all trades. If he’s not out surveying vineyards or buried in a row of barrels at his winery in Lompoc’s “Wine Ghetto,” you’d have trouble pinning him down: He could be in Los Angeles crunching numbers with his mother/bookkeeper, out on a recovery mission for his volunteer work at the local search and rescue (his unit was called up for the 2018 Camp Fire in Paradise), designing new labels for his upcoming release, or racing around Europe talking about his increasingly buzzed-about wines.
There’s a reason his nascent label has caught the world’s attention so swiftly: Gavin’s first harvest came at 18 under the mentorship of Au Bon Climat’s Jim Clendenen, and with the additional guidance of Qupé’s Bob Lindquist, Gavin was making his own wine (from the best vineyard sites) within a matter of years. Learning under two of California’s greatest wine minds and crafting wine from premium, sustainably farmed grapes from the beginning propelled him into launching his own eponymous label in 2007.
Sta. Rita Hills’ combination of cool climate, rolling fog, and unique soils are a match made in heaven for classy, elegantly layered Pinot Noir, and Sanford & Benedict is one of its strong beating hearts. Planted in 1971 on self-rooted vines, this was Pinot Noir’s debut in Santa Barbara County, and over the course of nearly 50 years, this site has become renowned for its brilliant quality. Sustainably farmed grapes were handpicked in the fall of 2013 and a 40% whole-cluster fermentation followed. Aging occurred in French barrels (only 15% new) for 16 months and the final wine was bottled unfiltered. This special back-vintage parcel has never left the winery.
Chanin’s 2013 “Sanford & Benedict” Pinot Noir is both approaching its sixth birthday and entering a sublime drinking window, and for those who will be tasting these wines for the first time, you’ll think you’ve struck gold. There’s something fascinating about this bottle that makes you feel like you’re experiencing something groundbreaking. Each sip brings finely nuanced soil complexities, rushes of vibrant acid, and fine-grained tannins that form the foundation of each broad, brightly layered sip. Its impeccable balance, however, is what resonates most with me: From crushed minerals and spice to piquant, deeply accented fruit, this is a masterpiece that sings a harmonious, sweet-sounding ode to the magical soils of “Sanford & Benedict.” A mixture of black and red berry fruit merge with a cascade of high-toned florals notes and a deft touch of oak spice. It’s bound to stun all Pinotphiles, especially those who are partial to Burgundy. I would highly recommend savoring this wine over many hours, as there is much life remaining—another ten years if you keep it in cool, dark conditions. For service, polish your largest Burgundy stems and pour the wine after a 30-minute decant. I guarantee this will restore and/or revamp your perception on California Pinot Noir—it’s one of the greatest bottles on the domestic market. Cheers!