Like the Rothschilds venturing into the Americas, Vega Sicilia made one of the wine world’s boldest moves in 1993 when they launched Oremus in Tokaj, Hungary. In very short order, they became a trendsetting benchmark, and today’s “Mandolás” illustrates why. They’ve not only mastered the art of dry Furmint, they were the first to ever do it here, and that invaluable experience shows in each sip.
Further, each grape in this bottle is hand-picked from the single vineyard of “Mandolás,” a top site that has been revered and recognized for well over two centuries. Tack on classic winemaking in their multi-level, 800+-year-old, volcanic-rock cellar and this white gem becomes both a treat for the senses and a conversation piece at the table. Accordingly, “Mandolás” has garnered top praise from
Forbes (“Wine of the Week” spotlight) and
Wine Enthusiast, while delighting curious newcomers all over the globe. In a region that is synonymous with golden nectar, Oremus is no longer an outlier, as many producers have followed them successfully into uncharted (i.e. dry) territory. Today’s 2016 is a shining example of the powerful minerality, vibrant richness, and exotic aromatics dry Furmint has to offer. This is Tokaj reimagined, and it works on every level!
With the purchase of Oremus, Vega Sicilia did more than take a gamble in an esoteric region. Remember, in 1993, Hungary had only been free of Communism for four years. Having been tied up in the government's hands for so long, the state of wine throughout the country was abysmal and desperately in need of a facelift. Slowly but surely, Hungarian farmers of old and new emerged, and, of course, so did the newcomers from Ribera del Duero. Over the past 26 years, they have helped provide a platform for the new age of Hungarian wine; without them, the landscape of Tokaj wouldn’t be as prominent as it is today. For that, we say thank you.
There are a handful of Hungarian vineyards that were classified as ‘first growth’ in the Antal Szirmay classification of 1803, two of which have a direct connection with today’s offer: “Oremus,” which the winery takes its name after, and “Mandolás,” the sole source of today’s Furmint. No matter the vineyard in question, Vega Sicilia’s team at Oremus farms with rigorous sustainable methods: eco-friendly buildings coexist with naturally farmed vines that are treated with organic fertilizers. In the winery, the Furmint is pressed and fermented in tank before the resulting wine is transferred in traditional, 136-liter Hungarian barrels known as Gönci. The aging occurs in their massive, miles-long maze of cellars dating back to the 12th century, and during the wine’s upbringing, a gentle bâtonnage regimen is carried out to provide more texture.
Pouring this 2016 “Mandolás” blind for your friends would be an entertaining experience, as it pulls characteristics from all across the spectrum. You’ll hear guesses from Chenin Blanc to Chardonnay, but ultimately it retains a unique identity that would be a dead ringer in a blind tasting...if you drank dry Furmint more often! In the glass, a straw-yellow core dances with platinum reflections, and after a brief 15-minute decant the wine starts unleashing a long list of aromas that instantly cause your mouth to water. It’s all florality and fruit on the nose: Preserved lemon, white peach, apricot, mandarin peel, bergamot orange, honeysuckle, and acacia take center stage, but stick around long enough and subtler notes of beeswax, crushed rock, and dried herbs enter into the mix. On the bone-dry palate, the hint of waxiness is checked by pleasant rushes of acidity and sun-kissed fruit. It’s a lot to take in for such a groundbreaking wine, but that’s the beauty of Oremus: They’re industry leaders that want everyone to experience the allure of dry Furmint, so they keep the price low. When serving, do so around 50-55 degrees in all-purpose stems and treat this wine with a standout meal. I think an ‘Asian-fusion’ main course will work wonders here, so try the attached recipe and enjoy!
