Shaking David Pehu’s hand during a trade tasting in Germany last March would’ve been just another repetitive motion had it not been for what came right after—today’s 2011 Grand Cru “Fins Lieux N°3.” Here we were, surrounded by thousands of wines and people and for a moment, everything froze and this bottle was all that mattered. We immediately called the importer, who quickly told us an allocation just wouldn’t be feasible. We kept at it, though, and after three months, our persistence paid off. We were granted the very last of their stock, and while it hardly amounts to anything, we’re ecstatic nonetheless.
Pehu-Simonet is a name that will be new to many, but they’ve been making major global noise over the last decade. A fourth-generation winemaker, David farms just over seven hectares and only bottles the best Grand Cru juice. Furthermore, he’s all about vintage and site specificity, as has been made apparent by his “Fins Lieux” luxury lineup. As if crafting Grand Cru vintage Champagne wasn’t already rare enough, David takes it multiple steps further by bottling today’s 100% organic Pinot Noir from a single
lieu-dit (named site) in the Grand Cru village of Mailly-Champagne. And he’s not done there: He then vinifies the wine in neutral Burgundy barrels and ages it on lees for
75 months before a low-
dosage disgorgement. Without a doubt, this bottle shows staggering levels of patience and detail that few others can match, perhaps no one at this price. You may find it on a Michelin-starred restaurant wine list, but other than that, today’s 2011 “Fins Lieux N°3” is a SommSelect exclusive—this isn’t a Champagne you show off, it’s one you bow to!
Fourth-generation David Pehu of Pehu-Simonet has given his estate a makeover in recent years that has rocketed it up the pecking order of elite, terroir-specific Champagne. The Pehu family, however, has been crafting Champagne since the early 1900s, proven by old ‘Veuve Pehu’ labels that are on proud display at the estate. When David’s parents formed Pehu-Simonet in the 1970s, it also came with a handful of premier vines from his mother’s side. This combination seemed to pave a clear path for him: Since 1988, David has been at the winemaking helm.
Today, David farms 7.5 hectares, six of which are located in Grand Cru villages. As for the other 1.5 hectares? The fruit is sold, as David only wishes to bottle wines containing the very best fruit. Today’s Blanc de Noir is his special bottling of 100% Pinot Noir from the Grand Cru village of Mailly-Champagne. It hails from “Les Poules,” an organically farmed parcel—his first—that hugs the western border of Grand Cru Verzenay. A trained Burgundy enologist, David put his knowledge to work in the winery for today’s 2011 “Fins Lieux N°3.” Using secondhand Burgundy barrels for vinification, he allowed a slow alcoholic fermentation while blocking malolactic—a secondary fermentation that converts malic acid to softer lactic acid—to preserve the fruit’s purity. Afterward, the wine was transferred to bottle where it aged on its lees for over six years until disgorgement in March of 2018. A mere four grams of sugar were added as a dosage, therefore qualifying it as an ‘extra-brut.’ Another year of aging post-disgorgement has only added to the wine’s wonderful savor. Note: His production in 2011 was microscopic.
Like the bronze sculpture chiseled by Auguste Rodin, this is a thinking man’s Champagne. Pehu-Simonet’s 2011 “Fins Lieux N°3,” with its savory complexity and minerality, has so much to offer. And while it evokes so much, it won’t speak unless you give it adequate respect. At the right temperature (50-55) and with the right stemware (Burgundy), it certainly speaks, unleashing years of caged-up wisdom with incredible eloquence and smooth cadence. The nose slowly unfurls with red and yellow apple skin, Bosc pear, red plums, redcurrant, crushed almonds, toasted bread, chalk, salt-preserved lemon, honey, damp herbs, button mushroom, and the subtlest influences of oak. The palate is gorgeously broad and layered with deep, slow-brooding earthy flavors that flirt with basketfuls of mature orchard fruit. It’s not for the easy-drinking, aperitif crowd, but for those who want to sit down in an ornate chair and really unravel all of its profound intricacies. This is mature, masterfully created Grand Cru Blanc de Noirs that perfectly highlights site, vintage, and grape. Open it with close friends, in an environment that won’t distract you because this deserves your attention! Try and make your bottle last over several hours to experience the full evolution, and preserve your others for enjoyment over the next 5-7 years. Enjoy.
