Today’s wine has considerable “inside baseball” appeal, but before we get to that, let’s state the obvious: This is a fantastic price for a Barbaresco Riserva, with age, from a celebrated vintage.
We all ooh’ed and aah’ed over this sinewy, perfumed 2010 from Ezio Cocito, whose releases I’ve followed with interest since first being introduced to them in the early 2000s. This is where the inside baseball part comes in: Those who love the wines of Piedmont have likely heard of Giorgio Rivetti, whose La Spinetta wines are some of the most sought-after in Barbaresco—successful enough that Rivetti has since expanded his footprint into Barolo, Asti (acquiring the fabled Contratto winery), and Tuscany. Rivetti is a longtime friend of Cocito’s based on another shared interest: horses. Although Cocito comes from a long line of farmers, and owned some vineyard land, horses were his primary occupation until Rivetti offered a proposition: He suggested Cocito re-plant one of his family’s Moscato vineyards to Nebbiolo and that he would help Cocito make Barbaresco from it in exchange for Cocito stabling his horses. Today’s wine is the 10th vintage born of this collaboration and it’s an exquisite, refined
riserva now settling into a distinguished middle age. It’s full of complexity, depth of flavor, energy, and finesse—an aging starlet that isn’t even close to losing its looks. As for the price, well, what can I say: A better deal you will not find!
[*NOTE: Today's offer will be arriving at our warehouse one week from today.]
That Moscato vineyard of Cocito’s was in the village of Neive, near the eastern edge of the Barbaresco DOCG zone. Located within a Neive cru vineyard called “Bric Micca,” which is right near Neive’s border with the more Moscato-heavy villages of Neviglie and Mango, the vineyard that would become the source of “Baluchin” was re-planted in 1995; the first vintage of Cocito Barbaresco from the site was 2000, and a star was born—not least for the price/value it continues to offer today. (Rivetti’s horses, meanwhile, have been well cared for).
“Baluchin” is said to mean “star” in Piedmontese dialect—a reference to the site’s position at the highest point in Bric Micca (about 400 meters), where one can more easily see the stars. The aspect is southwest and the Baluchin site is very steeply pitched, with soils of marl and compact sandstone reminiscent of those of Serralunga in nearby Barolo. There’s a firmness to the structure and a focused power to this wine that is typical of this part of Barbaresco (the “Bricco di Neive” and “Serraboella” vineyards are its two closest neighbors).
The 2010 “Baluchin” Barbaresco Riserva, of which just 400 cases were produced, spent 22 months aging in French oak
barriques (10% new) before bottling. Having now spent several more years aging in bottle, it has let go of its youthful rawness and absorbed its oak so that it is now a cedary, spicy accent note. It has entered its prime drinking window, showing the full dynamic range of Piedmont’s Nebbiolo grape. In the glass, it’s a medium garnet-red moving to pink and brick orange at the rim, with that inimitable aged-Nebbiolo nose of dried cherries, wild strawberries, roses, burnt orange peel, baking spices, leather, tobacco, and tar. It opens up quickly so you don’t need to decant it very long—maybe 15 minutes or so before service, watching for sediment. It is medium-bodied and finely detailed, its tannins now fine-grained and its acidity still vibrant. There’s lots of energy on the palate propelling the wine through a long, floral finish, but don’t overpower it with the food pairing: Serve it in Burgundy stems at 60-65 degrees with braised chicken thighs for a savory tour-de-force. It should continue to drink well over the next 5-7 years, so don’t be shy about stocking up—this is probably our only shot at it!
