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Domaine de la Sarazinière, Mâcon-Bussières “Les Devants”

Other, France 2017 (750mL)
$28.00
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Domaine de la Sarazinière, Mâcon-Bussières “Les Devants”

Today’s uniquely delicious wine transcends everything one knows about Burgundy’s price to quality—and grape! This rare Mâcon Rouge from Domaine de la Sarazinière has a complexity that can only be delivered by vines that hold great wisdom—in this case, nine decade’s worth! These 93-year-old vines were originally planted by the domaine’s founder, but the sheer age of these gnarled beasts isn’t the most exciting part; it’s what they are yielding.
Although we’re deep in Pinot Noir country, today's grape of choice is organically farmed Gamay! Own-rooted vines from 1926, farmed by a family-run domaine—if you do the math in your head, the $20-something price simply doesn’t add up. Especially once the cork is pulled: “Les Devants” is a many-layered mouthful of succulent berry fruit, crushed-stone minerality, and disarmingly pretty aromatics. It will take you to a Burgundian world you may never have experienced before—and that, to me, is what great wine is all about. Quantities are very low and the chances of encountering this wine a second time are slim to none, so act now!
Created by Claude Seigneuret in 1926, the Domaine de la Sarazinière estate name stems from the small lieu-dit surrounding the original family home in the village of Bussières. Today, the father-son team of Phillippe and Guillaume Trebignaud endeavor to capture the terroir and the character of each vintage. Strict non-interventionists, they craft their wines as nature intended; although uncertified, the duo utilizes organic practices and are convinced that only the most biodiverse soils can communicate the true terroir of their vineyards. 

The world of wine is becoming more privy to quality Mâcon with each passing day, and the arrival of Burgundy titans such as Lafon and Leflaive drives the point home even further. As with every region, there are small pockets of greatness throughout the appellation, and “Les Devants” is one of those gems. Also located in the village of Bussières, this is a microscopic lieu-dit blessed with complex clay-limestone soils and elevations that offer a distinct sense of place.

Following a rigorous sorting and manual harvest in September of 2017, the Gamay was de-stemmed and fermented with native yeasts, without the use of sulfur. Though punch-downs were a regular occurrence, they kept the maceration period to a couple weeks in order to preserve the ripe, vibrant fruit. The wine then aged in neutral French barrels for 12 months. It was bottled unfiltered with a minimum-possible sulfur addition. 

Sarazinière’s 2017 “Les Devants” is a Gamay that refuses to be singled out: It shows intense vigor, soil essence, and an incredible purity of fruit that pulls you in myriad directions. Is it Rhône, Loire, Cru Beaujolais? It seems to contain characteristics of all three! In the glass, the wine reveals a dark and brooding ruby that reads more serious than playful. After a quick 15-minute decant, it releases an explosion of damp violets, crushed rock, forest floor, a touch of Syrah-esque black pepper, huckleberry, red plums, hibiscus, fresh herbs, and ripe black cherry. The medium- to medium-plus-bodied palate tickles the senses with zesty, mouthwatering acidity (Loire Cab Franc?) and finishes with savory minerals and brambly fruit.  It is a wine of both complexity and pure pleasure without coming remotely close to breaking the bank. I recommend enjoying it often over the next few years, although a decade will easily bring further depth with proper storage. Serve in Burgundy stems around 60 degrees and dazzle a crowd with a smoked sausage cassoulet. Cheers!
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Country
France
Region
Other
Sub-Region
FranceMâcon-Bussières
Soil
Limestone & Clay
Farming
Practicing Organic
Blend
Gamay 100%
Alcohol
13.0
OAK
Neutral French Barrel
TEMP.
60
Glassware
Burgundy Stem
Drinking
Now-2025+
Decanting
15-30 Minutes
Pairing
Smoked Sausage Cassoulet

France

Bourgogne

Beaujolais

Enjoying the greatest wines of Beaujolais starts, as it usually does, with the lay of the land. In Beaujolais, 10 localities have been given their own AOC (Appellation of Controlled Origin) designation. They are: Saint Amour; Juliénas; Chénas; Moulin-à Vent; Fleurie; Chiroubles; Morgon; Régnié; Côte de Brouilly; and Brouilly.

Southwestern France

Bordeaux

Bordeaux surrounds two rivers, the Dordogne and Garonne, which intersect north of the city of Bordeaux to form the Gironde Estuary, which empties into the Atlantic Ocean. The region is at the 45th parallel (California’s Napa Valley is at the38th), with a mild, Atlantic-influenced climate enabling the maturation of late-ripening varieties.

Central France

Loire Valley

The Loire is France’s longest river (634 miles), originating in the southerly Cévennes Mountains, flowing north towards Paris, then curving westward and emptying into the Atlantic Ocean near Nantes. The Loire and its tributaries cover a huge swath of central France, with most of the wine appellations on an east-west stretch at47 degrees north (the same latitude as Burgundy).

Northeastern France

Alsace

Alsace, in Northeastern France, is one of the most geologically diverse wine regions in the world, with vineyards running from the foothills of theVosges Mountains down to the Rhine River Valley below.

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