This small-production, family-run Champagne grower deserves all the praise in the world, so I’m done keeping it under wraps: A. Chauvet is an undercover superstar. Their wines are layered, mineral, fruit-studded gems that have quietly dominated the upper echelons of Champagne—and their rosé from Grand Cru Tours-sur-Marne is our favorite by a hefty margin.
When we met Jean-François of A. Chauvet during our visit to Champagne last year, we blew through a bottle while walking through the vineyards (while my daughter
performed a balancing act), and even took one for the road. We left all smiles, knowing that we’d be offering our customers one unforgettable Grand Cru rosé. Still, despite our intimate walkthrough and us being a quasi-ambassador for this small estate, it took 12 agonizing months to get our hands on an allocation to offer our subscribers. It’s finally here—just in time for the warm weather—and it’s even better than remembered!
It only took minutes into our 2018 visit for Jean-François Paillard-Chauvet to become one of our favorite winemakers. Quirky, amiable, and sharp as a tack, his warm presence was instantly contagious. Jean-François guided us through his 18th-century chalk cellar, taught us the painstaking process of hand-riddling and hand-bottling, and tasted us on soon-to-be-released wines (like today’s) in his outworn, taxidermy-filled living room. Needless to say, it was a memory I’ll be stowing away for quite some time.
The daily operations and winemaking duties at A. Chauvet are handled by Jean-François and his brother Arnaud. They come from a pedigreed lineage and those who enjoy Champagne will recognize some of the following names. Jean-François is a cousin to respected growers Pierre Paillard and Bruno Paillard, and a nephew to the former owner of Gosset—which can claim to be the oldest wine house in Champagne (est. 1584). A. Chauvet, however, dates back to 1848 and has remained in family hands the entire time. As such, they are serious about preserving their family name and bottling only the finest bubbles. It’s all music to my ears.
Grand Rosé is a blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir all sourced from the chalky bedrock of Grand Cru village Tours-sur-Marne. Grapes from sustainably-farmed vines averaging 35 years old were hand harvested (a requirement of the Champagne AOC) and each parcel was vinified separately. Reserve wines, stored in neutral oak casks, made up 20% of the final blend and malolactic fermentation was blocked to create a more precise style. The wine aged for nearly four years—the minimum requirement is 15 months—on the lees in chalk cellars that were hand-dug in 1798. This extended aging period provided the depth and richness you’ll find swimming around today’s wine. Additionally, A. Chauvet is one of the very few remaining producers that still
riddles by hand, meaning each bottle in the cellar is skillfully turned dozens of times over several weeks in order to collect sediment in the neck. After disgorgement, the
dosage consisted of six grams of sugar plus the addition of still Pinot Noir from Bouzy Grand Cru.
In the glass, the newest disgorgement of A. Chauvet’s Grand Rosé reveals a vibrant mousse atop a brilliant vermilion hue—it is a gorgeous looking wine. Although there is undeniably deeply textured Grand Cru fruit on the nose, the wine shows an elegant side with supple notes of raspberry, Rainier cherry, salted watermelon, dried orange peel, pomegranate seeds, and white peach. It’s inviting and generous right upon pulling the cork, but if you serve this rosé in larger stems and wait until the temperature creeps up to around 50-55 degrees, it comes alive with chiseled minerality and savor: crushed chalk, wet stones, fresh rose petal, lees, delicate spices. The palate is lush and swimming with piquant fruits that deliver superb tension. It’s squeaky clean, fresh, and thoroughly enjoyable right this moment, though it will play a harmonious chord over the next 5+ years. Classy label, insanely good Grand Cru rosé, and eye-candy for anyone’s cellar—what’s there not to love in this $50-something package? Serve it around good friends and prepare some light snacks. Warning: the wine goes quickly!
