Because all of you inhaled our allocation of Bien Nacido’s sensational 2014 Pinot Noir last year, we were allowed insider access to their inaugural vintage of “X Block,” one of the world’s great Syrahs at its absolute lowest price. This is a Syrah masterpiece infused with jaw-dropping aromatics, intense flavor, and unparalleled ageability—put it next to your finest Côte-Rôties and you’ll quickly understand just how significant this bottle is. We expect an all-out frenzy with this one today, so be quick on the trigger and take what you can.
So what’s all the fuss about? Well, the region-defining Bien Nacido Vineyard was first planted by the Miller family in 1973 and has since been labeled a “Top Grand Cru Vineyard,” “Vineyard of the Year,” and “Top 25 Vineyard of the World.” Over the decades, dozens of California’s greatest producers have lined up to slap the coveted “Bien Nacido” name on their labels, but one particular slice of this vineyard has put critics and privy wine minds in a certifiable stupor: “X Block.” For decades, the Millers have never allowed more than four producers to purchase grapes from this special site in any given year, and, starting with today’s 2014 vintage, they began bottling their own micro-batches. Who better to understand this singular site than the original grower? With their time-honored viticultural skills and the brilliance of winemaker Trey Fletcher, the wines immediately became blockbuster sensations—just take a gander at the crazy press this 2014 is receiving if you need further reassurance; it’s one for the ages. Only 100 cases were produced. As such, our quantities are severely limited.
In the mid-1850s, the Ontiveros family was granted a deed to a parcel originally called Rancho Tepusquet, near Santa Barbara in California. This was a land grant offered by the then-Governor of Mexico as a homestead for his daughter and new son-in-law to create a future and family. From the first days of their time at Rancho Tepusquet, the Ontiveros family had raised cows, horses, and other livestock next to a small tributary of the Santa Maria River. With a crystalline water source and nearly 2,000 acres of pasture land, the family started building their home. Then came Bob and Steve Miller, members of their own fourth-generation farming family, both of whom found this pristine property in 1969 when they were offered two contiguous parcels of land that were part of the original Rancho Tepusquet. With the chance to continue a tradition of farming sustainably and focusing on the highest quality, the two original parcels were reunited and rechristened “Bien Nacido.” Directly (and appropriately) translated as “well-born,” Bien Nacido is about as purebred as vineyards come.
Bob and Steve saw this land as a perfect home for wine grapes. Santa Maria Valley is technically classified as a “Winkler Region 1b.” This is as cold, in terms of average temperature, as Champagne; the Mosel Valley in Germany; Kremstal in Austria; and Burgundy’s Cote d’Or. Understanding this, the Millers planted the vineyard with the first certified virus-free clones of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir from UC Davis in 1973—the “X Block” Syrah followed in 1987.
Bien Nacido proudly claims to be the United States’ most influential single-vineyard source, with more than 160 producers over 44 years having used “Bien Nacido” on their labels. Only vineyards in Burgundy have been designated more, and I am certain that has something to do with their 700-year history. Having been inspired by this, Steve Miller’s youngest son, Nicholas (now the fifth generation) decided to make some of their own small-production wines starting in the late 2000s, although their first “X Block” release came in 2014—saving the best for last. As this block has always been their top-performer, Master Sommelier and Bien Nacido Ambassador, Will Costello, explained to us that there is a line out the door with producers who want the fruit. Remember, Bien Nacido Estate never sells their “X Block” fruit to more than four producers per year, and now they're holding back some of that coveted crop for their very own production!
Under the guidance of winemaker Trey Fletcher, Bien Nacido Estate wines are made to showcase this sustainably farmed terroir by limiting the factors in the winery that would take away from that. This 2014 “X Block” Syrah produces thick-skinned intensely concentrated berries that were all hand-harvested at night. At their onsite winery, the grapes (70% whole cluster) fermented via native airborne yeasts and then saw 18 months of aging in French oak barrels, a quarter of which were brand new. It was bottled unfiltered.
The result is a wine of breathtaking beauty, muscularity, and slow-building power; a tour de force that lingers on the palate for minutes on end. Cascades of dense fruit—cassis, black raspberry, plum—pour out of the glass as seductive aromas of delicately woven smoke, leather, and spiced meats follow on its heels. It’s a masterfully made Syrah that weaves a complex tapestry of fine tannin, concentrated fruit, and intense depth. And though it’s still learning to walk at this early stage (like any world-class Côte-Rôtie would be), it is wonderfully approachable in its youth. Still, those who practice the lost art of patience will be heavily rewarded five years from now, and if you miraculously hold onto your last bottle until its 15th-20th birthday, you may find your eyes welling from the sheer bliss it will bring. After a one hour decant, serve in Bordeaux stems around 65 degrees and place a healthy portion of medium-rare lamb on your plate. One of the world’s greatest Syrahs with a succulent leg of lamb is a magnificent experience—enjoy it!
