Today, we’re defying France’s rigid appellation rules by calling this stunning bottle of Jamet a fully-functioning Côte-Rôtie at a rock-bottom price. If the wine inside doesn’t make you a devout believer in value, nothing else will—insider deals such as this are the reason we go to work!
Here’s why this once-in-a-blue-moon deal is such a good one: First, it’s crafted by one of Rhône’s most legendary families—the mere mention of “Jamet” provokes an awed response from Côte-Rôtie lovers. It is a category-defining name, on the same level as the titans of Chave in Hermitage, Lafite in Pauillac, and Conterno in Barolo. Second, the Syrah for Jean-Luc Jamet’s “L’Enclave” is sourced from a few acres that lie just above the terraced slopes of Côte-Rôtie. More specifically, for all of our Northern Rhône nerds, today’s vines are within striking distance of Côte Brune (top bottlings from here fetch hundreds of dollars). So, despite what today’s label actually says, to us, this has all the makings of legitimate Côte-Rôtie—except for the low price. Of course, with Jamet’s limited scope of vines, this is a very rare wine (though the price seems to say otherwise) that is nearly impossible to find. Take a baker's dozen while you can!
Vignobles Jean-Luc Jamet is run by one of two brothers who tag-teamed the operations at Domaine Jamet for more than 20 years. Having divvied up the family’s holdings with his brother, Jean-Paul (who now runs Domaine Jamet with his wife and son), Jean-Luc has gone his own way without actually going anywhere: The brothers created two wineries from one with a well-placed concrete wall. Having meticulously assembled an enviable—some would say unrivaled—assortment of vineyards throughout the appellation, the Jamets have become the ultimate name in collectible, age-worthy Syrah. Luckily for us, Jean-Luc offers his bottles at a much, much friendlier price!
Labeled as ‘Côte du Rhône,’ this wine is 100% Syrah grown on a high plateau above ‘Côte Brune’ just outside the official Côte-Rôtie AOC boundary. Soils here are dominated by brown schist and clay—which tends to produce more muscular, structured wines, but when combined with today’s higher-elevation, wind-swept locations, you have a pretty good idea of what you’re going to get: a high-toned, perfumed Syrah that dances across the palate. As you might also expect, this wine has a very traditional and savory feel. The Jamets have long been known for using a predominance of whole grape clusters in their fermentations, lending the wines added grip and jaw-dropping florality. And, although the wine ages in barrels of various sizes (a small percentage of which are new), the role of oak flavors is that of a background actor. Following maturation, the wine is allowed to rest for a brief period in stainless steel. It is bottled without filtration.
The wine pours an intense black core that moves out to a vibrant ruby-crimson rim. It’s entirely opaque—not one ray of light is cutting through this. Typically, you’d associate this with a brutish wine that saw heavy oak and extraction, but that’s the polar opposite with Jamet—the aromatics are superbly lifted and elegant, and so is the wine itself. A few service notes first: If you plan on consuming this for dinner (it’s begging for a smoked rack of lamb), pull the cork early in the afternoon and place the bottle in a cool, dark space. Or, allow it to open up in a decanter for 1-2 hours before serving in bulbous Burgundy stems. After all that’s out of the way, sit back, relax, and enjoy the steady march of finessed, classic Côte-Rôtie aromas that envelop your senses. Black pepper, kirsch, brambly black fruit, olive tapenade, damp violets, lavender, huckleberry, scorched earth, dried herbs, cured meat, and vintage leather burst out of the glass. The velvety palate arrives with a medium-plus body and finely-grained, dark-fruited textures that crescendo into a delicately smoky, spice-infused finish. It truly is a phenomenal wine that undoubtedly deserves ‘Côte-Rôtie across its label. As such, this investment-grade wine will age with the best of them—save a few for 2025+ if you want to experience the marvel that is aged Northern Rhône Syrah. Enjoy!
