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Morey-Coffinet, Saint-Romain “Sous le Château”

Burgundy / Côte de Beaune, France 2015 (750mL)
$42.00
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Morey-Coffinet, Saint-Romain “Sous le Château”

Longtime subscribers need no introduction to Morey-Coffinet, a consistently top-performing Burgundy label crafting a lineup of organic, region-defining wines. Today’s sumptuous 2015 from the “Sous le Château” vineyard in Saint-Romain is always one of my favorites, because this vineyard/village combination always over-delivers, making anyone who shows up with a bottle look like a genius among Burgundy-savvy company.
Though Saint-Romain is sometimes viewed as an appendage to more-renowned Côte de Beaune villages, it is, in the hands of Morey-Coffinet, an almost-identical experience to its majestic neighbors at a far lower price. This is no exaggeration: You could replace today’s “Sous le Château” with almost any Premier Cru from Chassagne or Puligny and we wouldn’t bat an eye. The reason? Morey-Coffinet is steeped in Chassagne-Montrachet experience, having nearly 10 labels dedicated to this world-class address. What is lesser known, however, are the tiny handful of labels they produce from outlying sites, like Saint-Romain. Farmed 100% naturally and masterfully crafted, this profoundly textured, mineral-infused white Burgundy isn’t just a price-friendly alternative to Chassagne/Puligny—it’s in a position to surpass them.
Morey-Coffinet was created from the union of two well-known families. In the late 1970s, Michel Morey (son of Marc), founded the estate with vineyards inherited by himself and his wife, Fabienne (of the well-known Pillot family). Today, Michel and his son, Thibault, oversee about eight hectares of Chardonnay-heavy vines, the overwhelming majority of which are in Chassagne—including parcels in most of the top Premier Crus and in Grand Cru Bâtard-Montrachet. They bottle wines under both a ‘domaine’ and ‘maison’ label, the latter denoting that grapes were purchased (essentially, a négociant). 

Although just a few miles west of Meursault, the commune of Saint-Romain is the ultimate ‘off-the-beaten-path’ appellation. This cooler, more rural white wine terroir sits in a hillside amphitheater with vineyards arrayed in a jumble of exposures, but the main distinction of Saint-Romain is altitude: Some of its vineyards are approaching 1,500 feet, like “Sous le Château.” While this is considerably higher than its more-famous neighbors to the east, these cooler sites still contain the classic Burgundy mix of marl and limestone that produce fine-tuned, mineral-chiseled Chardonnay with remarkable aromatic depth. 

Thibault has converted the domaine’s farming to Ecocert-certified organic and biodynamic viticulture, and when it comes to outsourced labels like today’s Saint-Romain, he makes sure that those vineyards are held to the same rigorous standards. After a year of literal hands-on farming, all grapes are harvested and combed through multiple times during the selection process. In the winery, juices are lighty extracted via a pneumatic press and fermentation occurs in stainless steel. French oak (30% new) of various sizes are used for maturation, and after 10 months the wine is bottled without filtration.
 
In the glass, Morey-Coffinet’s 2015 “Sous le Château” reveals a radiant straw-yellow core with silver reflections. After a 30-minute decant, the nose erupts with seductive layers of  yellow apple, white pear, pineapple, and white peach flesh, that mingle with high-toned lemon blossoms, candied lime peel, raw hazelnut, crushed white rocks, and the softest kiss of baking spice. This isn’t a timid white Burgundy: It is medium-plus in body and delivers tantalizing rushes of piquant minerality and wonderfully ripe, creamy fruit. The mouthfeel is supple and round with enlivening acidity that sends a riptide of crushed stones straight down the center of your tongue. With an assist from the warmth of 2015, this is incredibly drinkable right now, although it will continue evolving in a beautiful light over the next 5-8 years. When enjoying, do so in Burgundy stems around 55 degrees and prepare the attached pan-seared salmon in a lemon butter sauce. Cheers!
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Country
France
Region
Burgundy / Côte de Beaune
Sub-Region
FranceSaint-Romain
Soil
Limestone & Clay
Farming
Organic & Biodynamic
Blend
Chardonnay 100%
Alcohol
13.0
OAK
30% New French
TEMP.
55
Glassware
Burgundy Stem
Drinking
Now-2025
Decanting
30-60 Minutes
Pairing
Pan-Seared Salmon w/ Lemon Butter

France

Bourgogne

Beaujolais

Enjoying the greatest wines of Beaujolais starts, as it usually does, with the lay of the land. In Beaujolais, 10 localities have been given their own AOC (Appellation of Controlled Origin) designation. They are: Saint Amour; Juliénas; Chénas; Moulin-à Vent; Fleurie; Chiroubles; Morgon; Régnié; Côte de Brouilly; and Brouilly.

Southwestern France

Bordeaux

Bordeaux surrounds two rivers, the Dordogne and Garonne, which intersect north of the city of Bordeaux to form the Gironde Estuary, which empties into the Atlantic Ocean. The region is at the 45th parallel (California’s Napa Valley is at the38th), with a mild, Atlantic-influenced climate enabling the maturation of late-ripening varieties.

Central France

Loire Valley

The Loire is France’s longest river (634 miles), originating in the southerly Cévennes Mountains, flowing north towards Paris, then curving westward and emptying into the Atlantic Ocean near Nantes. The Loire and its tributaries cover a huge swath of central France, with most of the wine appellations on an east-west stretch at47 degrees north (the same latitude as Burgundy).

Northeastern France

Alsace

Alsace, in Northeastern France, is one of the most geologically diverse wine regions in the world, with vineyards running from the foothills of theVosges Mountains down to the Rhine River Valley below.

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