Well-known critic Jeb Dunnuck isn’t the only one who is “continually blown away by what they (Melville) are able to put in the bottle.” We are too, and it’s high time they were recognized here on SommSelect. Now with a “Top 100 Winery” award from Wine & Spirits magazine, the future has never been brighter for Chad Melville’s small Santa Rita Hills operation. Taste his estate wines once and you’ll wave the Melville flag for life, guaranteed.
Pound for pound, at $35, this is among the finest Pinot Noir bottlings not just in the US, but anywhere on earth. Always cherished by the critics, and further loved by consumers, these wines epitomize the finesse, perfume, and power that Santa Barbara’s gold-status terroir is now famous for. Without Melville, Sta. Rita Hills wouldn’t have near as much traction and prominence as it does today. Thanks to a ‘farm first’ mindset and a vivid focus on preserving the intricacies of the terroir, this exquisite Pinot Noir is structurally built for the finest arbiters of wine, but certainly not priced like it.
In 1989, Chad’s salt-of-the-earth, dirt-under-the-fingernails father, Ron, began growing premium grapes in Sonoma County’s Knights Valley—a remote, hidden gem of an appellation. His pristine crop quickly attracted elite labels and he became a regional icon in a matter of years. Despite the success, however, his eyes started drifting elsewhere: South. Way south. In the mid-1990s, Ron became intrigued with the western reaches of Santa Barbara, a marine-influenced area with rolling fog and complex soils. His interest grew into infatuation, so much so that he relocated his entire operation down to Sta. Rita Hills by 1996. Keep in mind, this was before it had been recognized as a legitimate appellation—that wasn’t until 2001. So, instead of staying comfortable in Sonoma and being handsomely rewarded for each harvest, Ron ventured into a new territory hoping that hard work and a dream would pay off. That it did. By his side was Chad, who absorbed his father’s knowledge and learned the ropes needed for his succession. Ask Chad today and he’ll still gush about his father without pause. They are genuine people making genuine wines from estate-owned grapes. And now, it’s entirely exclusive: Chad no longer sells any of his sought-after crop to other producers!
Though entirely sourced from their own vines, there are a number of different parcels and clones in this bottle, which they have masterfully blended together. Melville is all about farming rigorously and sustainably—it’s mind-boggling to hear the work they do leading up to harvest (nevermind the pruning, leaf thinning, and cover crop planting!). They are constantly checking the vines, row by row, assuring quality and ripeness is exactly where they want it. Because of this meticulous work, Melville exclaims “at the time of harvest, we consider the wines to already be made.” In the winery, it’s a hands-off process. About half of the grapes are de-stemmed in open-top fermenters. After a solid month that consists of cold soaking, fermenting, and extended maceration, the wine is gently transferred into neutral French barrels without sulfur. It remains here on its lees until the following June.
Flaunting a brilliant ruby color with garnet reflections, Melville’s 2015 Estate Pinot Noir is an explosively perfumed treat for the senses. High-toned aromas instantly rumble out of the glass with wild strawberry, black cherry blossoms, raspberries, and orange peel at the fore. Quickly following is a stream of earthy, mineral energy that reveals itself with notes of freshly picked herbs, rose petal, cracked earth, underbrush, rhubarb, violets, and a touch of pepper. The palate is classic Melville: refined, polished, and bursting with ripe red/black fruits that dance to a fine mineral tune. You don’t have to be a connoisseur to pick out the richly layered textures and world-class idiosyncrasies in this wine: It has ample weight that is buttressed by a breathtaking core of pure fruit and ultra-smooth tannins. Already a marvel to drink now, this should be enjoyed in a large Burgundy stem around 60 degrees, but will keep for a decade to come! Savor this soulful wine with an herbed leg of lamb and a few friends because sharing food and drink with good company is one of life’s necessities—one that is often overlooked. Enjoy!