Burgundy authority Allen Meadows (a.k.a. “Burghound”) dedicated 346 pages to “The Pearl of the Côte,” an all-inclusive book about Vosne-Romanée and the majestic wines produced there. A major focal point, of course, was Echézeaux, which is one of the village’s eight fabled Grand Crus—vineyards whose wines fetch some of the highest prices in the world. No other region can hold a candle to this small pocket of vinous gold—it’s simply the apogee of noble Pinot Noir.
World-class location aside, the brilliant winemaking of David Duband cemented our gushing praise for this rare Burgundian treasure. David is an avant-garde producer reverting to simpler times by farming naturally and crafting terroir-driven wines with subtle oak influence. Essentially, he walks the tightrope between modern and traditional winemaking, and today’s offer epitomizes that. This 2014—a momentous vintage and an ideal one for cellaring—is a wholly elegant, mineral-pure Grand Cru with jaw-dropping florality. Duband’s wines are attracting more critical raves with each new vintage, so it’s only a matter of time before his prices begin flirting with “unobtainable.” For now, this remains a breathtaking, sure-bet Grand Cru that will boldly take center stage in your cellar for decades to come. There are only a few cases available to us and from our viewpoint, that’s all there is in America—aside from a smattering of luxury restaurants. We can offer just two bottles per person until our stash disappears!
As all great writers must some day find their voice, it can be said that every great winemaker must find his/her own style. David Duband is one of those winemakers—a traditionalist with his own matchless, innovative fingerprint. Under his father, Pierre, the family had modest holdings in the Côte de Nuits, which originally sold their grapes to the cooperative in Beaune. After David obtained an enology degree in Beaune, he joined his father at the family domaine and was crowned head of the estate in 1991.
Once he took the reins, David quickly went to work expanding the estate’s holdings. He has since converted all of his vineyards (as well as his long-term leases) to organic and biodynamic viticulture under the strict regulations of Ecocert. He also began crafting and bottling all of their wines in-house, and in doing so found his signature style that has firmly ensconced the Duband name among the greatest in Burgundy. Paradoxically striving to craft wines with, “finesse and power” that are “delicate and intense,” David Duband utilizes a rare combination of tradition and modern innovation. The hand-harvested grapes are meticulously sorted then fermented with 80% whole clusters over the course of 17 days. The wine is traditionally trodden under foot 5-7 times and is also pumped over as needed. It’s then pressed and allowed to clarify for two weeks before being racked into French oak barrels (40% new) for 14 months of aging. Afterward, it settles in tank for three months and is bottled without fining or filtration, which results in an unadulterated expression of this sacred terroir.
Duband’s Echézeaux vines lie in the
lieu-dit (there are 11) “Les Rouges du Bas.” This slice of vineyard sits farther upslope, near forested land, and we like to add that as yet another reason why this bottle exudes so much florality and finesse. Raw earth and purple/red flowers instantly reveal themselves at the fore, but after ample oxygen, supple berry perfume emerges in silky layers—that’s the genius of Duband. A hint of smoke and soft kisses of currant, plum, savory herbs, and mushroom also make their way out of the glass, followed by a warming presence of integrated baking spices. The ethereal palate boasts structured and refined tannins (which will only become ultra-polished with more aged) and elegant dark fruits that evolve into a complex assortment of earth and minerality. It’s a powerfully soulful wine that captures the legendary terroir of Echézeaux in all its splendor. As we’ve mentioned before with Duband’s Grand Crus: These are not meant to pop and pour on a whim, they are long-lived beauties that should properly age in the dark reaches of your cellar until an extremely special moment arises. If you drink the bottle now, it will still stun a room after a two hour decant, but just realize that its greatest moments are likely 10 years down the road. Enjoy!
