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Jean-Marc Brocard, Chablis 1er Cru “Montée de Tonnerre”

Burgundy / Chablis, France 2016 (750mL)
$55.00
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Jean-Marc Brocard, Chablis 1er Cru “Montée de Tonnerre”

Brocard is a name that resonates in Chablis, but not in the sense of an heirloom producer, as they were only founded in 1973. It’s what they’ve done within that time that makes theirs such a globally recognized brand. 
In extremely short order, Jean-Marc Brocard became one of the very first organic and biodynamic producers in Chablis, all while amassing an incredible array of old, aristocratic vines. From single-vineyard 'village-level' Chablis to the very best Premier and Grand Cru vineyards, his are deeply textured wines that showcase the singular qualities of elite white Burgundy. And, for the price, today’s label is our favorite: Because the world is becoming increasingly aware of what Premier Cru “Montée de Tonnerre” is capable of in both vineyard and bottle, it has become a Grand Cru in everything but name. Perched on the right bank of the Serein River, upstream from the unbroken string of Chablis Grand Crus and a golf shot across a slender ravine from Grand Cru “Blanchots,” it’s a Chardonnay paradise that becomes fully realized in Brocard’s hands. On top of that, this is one of the finest 2016s I’ve tasted—there is enough depth, intrigue, and tension racing around this Chablis to fascinate even the choosiest Burgundy authority. 
Great Burgundian terroirs are full of noteworthy Jean-Marcs: Roulot, Boillot, Morey, Pillot, and of course, Brocard, which is a one-stop powerhouse for all your Chablis needs. Even more impressive, is the fact that they’ve achieved this in such short order, thanks in large part to Jean-Marc’s mentor, Louis Petit. When Louis told him “look, be quiet, and learn,” Brocard took it to heart and has since infused that axiom into his farming and winemaking philosophies. Jean-Marc was one of the very first in all of Chablis to start farming organically and he continued his pioneering ways with biodynamic practices. Plowing takes the place of chemicals, manure nourishes the soils, airborne yeasts trigger fermentation—this is a call back to bygone traditions. The Brocards’ ability to consistently achieve throughout their dozens of segmented hectares is nothing short of astounding. 

Feeding off the essence of nature and the wisdom of senior winemakers before the days of vineyard mechanization, Jean-Marc set out from the beginning to craft traditional, master-class Chablis and has since passed these lessons to his son, Julien. That qualitative precision is loud and clear in today’s Montée de Tonnerre. Pristine, naturally farmed grapes were hand-picked in the curtailed 2016 harvest and sent into both stainless steel tanks and a whopping 50-hectoliter wooden vessel. Natural alcoholic and malolactic fermentations were completed in these vessels, as well as extended aging on its raw lees before bottling. 

Brocard’s 2016 reveals a deep straw-yellow in the glass that pops with silver and slight green reflections. The nose bursts with impressive salinity that comes in the form of crushed oyster shells and sea spray, closely followed by lemon curd, white peach, freshly sliced white pear, lees, honeysuckle, acacia,  lime blossoms, yellow apple skin, and bracing chalk minerality. This  Montée de Tonnerre holds its weight nicely, thanks to lifted acidity and crushed mineral components. It’s a wonderfully round wine, revealing supple layer after layer as you keep peeling them away. Medium-plus bodied, this shows a breathtaking creaminess while remaining taut and vibrant—the magic of ‘thunder mountain’ on full display. If consuming now (you should drink at least one), allow a quick 15-minute decant before serving in all-purpose white or Burgundy stems around 50-55 degrees. Do know, however, that this impressive Burgundy will keep for 10+ years or more if stored properly. Serve with pan-seared scallops and a rich white wine butter sauce and watch as the chiseled minerality of this delicious, weighty Premier Cru slices right through the seafood. It’s the ultimate savory pairing. 
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Country
France
Region
Burgundy / Chablis
Sub-Region
France1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre
Soil
Kimmeridgian
Farming
Organic
Blend
Chardonnay 100%
Alcohol
13.0
OAK
Partial Wood Vessel
TEMP.
55
Glassware
Burgundy Stem
Drinking
Now-2030
Decanting
15 Minutes
Pairing
Pan-Seared Scallops w/ Sage-Butter Sauce

France

Bourgogne

Beaujolais

Enjoying the greatest wines of Beaujolais starts, as it usually does, with the lay of the land. In Beaujolais, 10 localities have been given their own AOC (Appellation of Controlled Origin) designation. They are: Saint Amour; Juliénas; Chénas; Moulin-à Vent; Fleurie; Chiroubles; Morgon; Régnié; Côte de Brouilly; and Brouilly.

Southwestern France

Bordeaux

Bordeaux surrounds two rivers, the Dordogne and Garonne, which intersect north of the city of Bordeaux to form the Gironde Estuary, which empties into the Atlantic Ocean. The region is at the 45th parallel (California’s Napa Valley is at the38th), with a mild, Atlantic-influenced climate enabling the maturation of late-ripening varieties.

Central France

Loire Valley

The Loire is France’s longest river (634 miles), originating in the southerly Cévennes Mountains, flowing north towards Paris, then curving westward and emptying into the Atlantic Ocean near Nantes. The Loire and its tributaries cover a huge swath of central France, with most of the wine appellations on an east-west stretch at47 degrees north (the same latitude as Burgundy).

Northeastern France

Alsace

Alsace, in Northeastern France, is one of the most geologically diverse wine regions in the world, with vineyards running from the foothills of theVosges Mountains down to the Rhine River Valley below.

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