What are the defining characteristics of Rutherford Cabernet Sauvignon? Students and makers of Napa Valley wines have mulled this question for generations. The classic descriptor, thought to have been coined by legendary Beaulieu winemaker André Tchelistcheff, is “dusty,” referring to the fine-grained but earthy tannins in the wines made in this valley-floor AVA.
I’d add “gravelly,” as these wines are typically as mineral as they are richly fruited, but ultimately the hallmarks of Rutherford are probably easier to taste than to articulate. So, do yourself a favor and taste this 2005 Cabernet from Pestoni Family Estate: It’s a Rutherford wine through and through. Formerly known as Rutherford Grove, the Pestoni Family property is right off Highway 29, counting as its neighbors some of the greatest and most historic names in Napa Cabernet, including BV, Grgich Hills, and Inglenook. The Pestonis, too, are deeply rooted in Napa winemaking history, and this ’05 has a resolutely classic feel to it—which is to say, it expresses soil character as clearly as fruit character, and it maintains a firm, mineral grip and perfect freshness at nearly 15 years of age. It’s also surprisingly affordable in a way that so many newer labels are not. We were thrilled to get access to some, and you will be too!
The name change from Rutherford Grove to Pestoni Family Estate was made official in 2017, and when you learn more about their history in the Napa Valley, you can see why they wanted to put the family name front and center. The first Pestoni to make wine in the Napa was a Swiss-Italian immigrant named Albino, who came to the US in 1882 and settled in Bell Canyon at the base of Howell Mountain. He eventually planted vineyards, built a small stone winery (the remnants of which still stand), and produced wines that garnered him some acclaim from neighbors and from cellar-door customers who came from as far as San Francisco to fill up. Albino’s son Henry went into viticulture and winemaking as well, eventually purchasing what is now known as Pestoni Ranch on Whitehall Lane in Rutherford. Present-day patriarch Bob Pestoni didn’t originally get into wine but instead co-founded a waste-management service with his brother, Marvin, which focused on recycling winery waste and composting. He and his wife, Sylvia, purchased Rutherford Grove in 1994 and their son, Andy (who also makes the popular Jelly Jar line of wines) is the estate’s winemaker today.
Were you to drive down Highway 29, densely populated as it is with wineries (including the flashy Alpha Omega across the street), you might pass Pestoni by—without any idea of its incredibly rich history. This is one of the things I appreciate about Napa: There’s so much more than meets the eye. But beyond the romantic appeal of this 2005 is the more tangible reality of its quality and amazing value-for-dollar.
This is a Napa “valley floor” archetype: powerful, focused Cabernet Sauvignon grown on the “alluvial fan” that extends from the base of the Mayacamas Range and stretches east to the Napa River. Aged two years in 60% new French oak before bottling, just 400 cases of the 2005 were produced. Its direct-from-the-winery provenance is evident in the vibrant, dark ruby-purple hue and the energy and structure of the wine on the palate. Classic Cabernet Sauvignon aromas of blackberries, cassis, black plum, graphite, cedar, and cigar tobacco carry through to the full-bodied palate, which has, at the 15-ish year mark, begun to reveal its earthy soul. There’s still some grip to the tannins, and while the wine opens up nicely with are, there’s some steeliness that will serve it well alongside a perfect medium-rare steak—but there should be a good 10 more years of positive evolution here. Lay a few bottles down, sure, but enjoy it now as it enters its peak drinking window: Decant it 45 minutes before service in large Bordeaux stems at 60-65 degrees. Grill or pan-sear a ribeye. Enjoy the wine’s pronounced savor, well-managed alcohol, and marked lack of syrupy sweetness. This is “old school” Cabernet, and it’ll never go out of style. Once you’ve tried it, I’m sure you will agree. Cheers!
