We’ve previously had the opportunity to offer Bruno Clair’s extraordinary Chambertin-Clos de Bèze, but every allocation could be counted on one, maybe two hands. Bottles are just that hard to come by, and for good reason: Domaine Bruno Clair is one of very few producers who own a coveted sliver of this region-defining vineyard. Not only is it considered one of the top Grand Crus of Burgundy, many consider the best bottlings from this cherished site to be among the finest in the world.
With just under one hectare to their name, Bruno naturally farms his gnarled, 107-year-old vines and gently treats the wine with judicious new oak and a long, undisturbed
élevage. Of course, when his micro-production finally does emerge onto the market, it is snatched up almost instantly and buried deep in the cellars of the savviest private collectors and Michelin-starred restaurants. If you are looking to add a wine to your collection that will exponentially appreciate in value and quality over many years to come, this is the golden ticket. We only have the tiniest supply and can only offer just two bottles per customer.
In terms of history, pedigree, and quality, Chambertin-Clos de Bèze and Chambertin are the two greatest Grand Crus of Gevrey-Chambertin, far outweighing the seven others that surround them. The origins of Clos de Bèze can be traced back to 640 AD, when the Abbey of Bèze was provided the land and the monks set about planting vines. Over a millennium later, during the late 1700s, parcels for both of these heavyweight properties were fetching some of the highest prices in the region. By 1937, when Clos de Bèze was officially declared a Grand Cru, it was all but cemented into the annals of wine history as one of the most revered sites in the world.
Bruno’s grandfather, Joseph, established the historically renowned, now defunct Domaine Clair-Daü in Marsannay just after the First World War. In the ‘80s, familial quarrels saw the estate split into four parts, but Bruno ultimately came out as the victor. Today, he runs over half of the original Clair-Daü estate, which includes prime parcels in Bonnes-Mares and today’s Chambertin-Clos de Bèze! Bruno himself is a viticulturist first and foremost, known for detailed, arduous work in his vineyards (he works organically, but hasn’t bothered to get certified). He farms his vines entirely without chemical fertilizers. He composts and plows the soils, maintains low yields and seemingly knows the health of each vine on his estate. The hand-harvested fruit is meticulously sorted then partially destemmed, depending on the requirements of the vintage as well as the individual site.
In the cellar, Bruno works closely with longtime enologist/right hand Philippe Brun to craft wines traditionally with the ultimate respect for vintage and site. Fermentation takes place in open-top wooden vats and is achieved through only natural yeasts. Wine is ‘punched down’ regularly over a two- to three-week cuvaison (maceration on the skins during fermentation), then transferred to oak where it undergoes malolactic fermentation in the spring. The wine is then racked and continues to age in 20%-50% new oak for 16-22 months.
In a world of heavy-handed, modern-styled wines, Bruno Clair’s offerings capture the subtlety, finesse, and sense of place that only the greatest Burgundies achieve. His wines are not crafted to ‘pop and pour’—they are rare expressions of classic Burgundy that are meant to be aged and pondered on the most special of occasions. Enter his 2016 Chambertin-Clos de Bèze: It’s a wine that perfectly harnesses grace and power, resulting in a palate filled with immense concentration and layered flavors.
In the glass, it reveals a deep ruby hue with lighter ruby highlights on the rim. The aromas are intensely perfumed but tightly coiled right out of the bottle, so if you absolutely must drink over the next couple years, be sure to show the wine a minimum two hour decant. Or, pull the cork five hours early and leave the wine in the cellar (or a cool dark spot) to slowly open up before serving at 60-65 degrees in large Burgundy stems. You’ll receive a beautiful snapshot of its blinding potential down the road, with expressive notes of crushed black cherries, fresh violets, persimmon, rose petals, licorice, currants, Damson plum, damp moss, subtle oak spice, and a touch of herbs. The palate is broadly textured and supple, with graceful power that builds into an immensely savory finish. But please remember: this will age for decades. Its prime drinking window will arrive around its 10th birthday and won’t be shutting down until long after. Release any stresses you may have before sitting down with this wine. If you’re in the right state of mind, it will forever be a bottle you cherish—that I can guarantee.
