I visited the cramped, almost pitch-black stone cellar at Bois de Boursan with my father in my twenties. It remains one of the most vivid, joyful memories of my career. Still, the significance is not entirely sentimental.
I also learned an important wine lesson that day. While I entered the cellar fearing that Châteauneuf-du-Pape was a region lost in a rabbit hole of its own willfully high alcohol and excessive ripeness, I left a few hours later with a much different perspective: Namely, that the region’s finest wines are something altogether more balanced, intricately detailed, and extraordinary. Every bottle of Bois de Boursan is a reminder that nothing compares to truly great Châteauneuf, and a one-way ticket to the untamed terroir of Southern France. To this day, I can think of few other producers—and absolutely zero who price wines this fairly—who more faithfully and viscerally express the essence of the region. In 2015, a vintage of historically epic quality in Châteauneuf, Bois de Boursan has harnessed all elements of the region’s legendary terroir and channelled it into a refined and elegant wine which, today, is hauntingly reminiscent of fine Burgundy. I’ve enjoyed countless bottles of mature Boursan over the years, so take my word that this wine is only going to get better and better. It’s a must for anyone who loves drinking and cellaring true-blue classic French wine.
I remember Bois de Boursan’s cellars as especially rustic and dark, filled with ancient oak barrels and cement fermenters which were packed so tightly from floor to ceiling that one could barely squeeze between them. There was virtually no light, no buzzing machinery and really no trappings of modern wine production, whatsoever—just the quiet, heavy footsteps of Jean-Paul Versino and the sound of him drawing an ounce of wine out of a barrel and into your glass. His cave is right in Châteauneuf-du-Pape proper, and my visit there was one of the greatest highlights of an epic French wine trip. And while Jean-Paul’s wines were incredible then, they’ve only gotten better. Made in an overtly pure and traditional style, layered with pristine fruit, herbs, and notes of olive and meat, they possess a distinctly pure and deeply mineral core. When I think of perfect Châteauneuf, a mature, 10-20 year old bottle of Bois de Boursan or Château Rayas is what comes to mind.
The property was founded in 1955 by Jean Versino and continues to be operated today by his son (and Bruce
Springsteen look-alike) Jean-Paul. This is a modest, 10-hectare property, with all the vineyards located inside the village of Châteauneuf-du-Pape. The estate only bottles three wines; no Côtes du Rhône and no “second labels.” Vine age spans from 55 to 95 years, with all farming at Bois de Boursan performed organically and without the use of chemical fertilizers or pesticides. The property is carved up into 37 small sub-parcels, and while most modern producers in Châteauneuf-du-Pape work almost exclusively with Grenache, Jean-Paul works with all 13 permitted varieties for the appellation. This creates a complex mosaic of aromas and textures that is rarely found in the region. Similarly, vinification for this wine is
über-traditional: grapes are left almost entirely in whole clusters (15% were de-stemmed in 2015) with the maceration on skins extending for at least three weeks. This is followed by 24 months in giant, neutral oak
foudres. The result is what I believe to be one of the best and most consistent Châteauneuf-du-Papes money can buy.
The 2015 Bois de Boursan has a dark crimson-red core moving to garnet reflections on the rim. The nose starts slightly shy, but don’t worry: After an hour open, this epic wine roars to life with an exotic perfume reminiscent of fine Burgundy; imagine the feral aspects of the great Grand Cru “Clos de la Roche.” I would likely be fooled by this wine in a blind tasting, just like I have been with wines from Château Rayas in the past. Once the wine opens up you will encounter aromas of wild strawberry, black cherry blossoms, black licorice, crème de cassis, freshly picked wild picked flowers and herbs, exotic mushrooms, and faint hints of olive, dried meat, and wet stones. The palate is medium-plus in body with notes of partially dried wild berries,
garrigue, leather and a hint of meat and olive on the finish. The finish is long, mineral and goes on for what seems like minutes, but again, proper aeration is key if drinking this wine today. So, I recommend either pulling the cork 60-90 minutes before serving or, even better, decanting 30-45 minutes before serving into Burgundy stems, just above cellar temp (60F is ideal). The wine will slowly unfold over time, so be patient. Its peak drinking window should emerge about five years from now and continue for another 10+ thereafter, so those with the patience and cellar space will be handsomely rewarded. In the meantime, email a few friends who love great French wine and tell them you have something special to share. Serving this wine in Zalto Burgundy stems alongside a traditional duck cassoulet is all you need to transform a cold winter night into a forever memory. It’s a special wine, I promise.
Bon appétit!
