The Arlauds have just a single acre of vines in the Clos de la Roche, in a lieu-dit parcel within the Grand Cru called “Les Mochamps.” Clos de la Roche sits at the northern end of Morey-St-Denis, on the border with Gevrey-Chambertin, and its wines are often characterized as ‘Gevrey-like’ in character. That said, the Arlaud version, in the 2016 vintage anyway, has lots of Morey-Saint Denis suavity—deep red cherry fruit, polished tannins, and highly floral aromatics that make you swoon. But it is still taut and youthful at this stage in its life, which, when you feel its structure, is destined to be a very long one.

Domaine Arlaud dates to the 1940s, when Joseph Arlaud married Renée Amiot, whose family owned several prime Burgundy vineyards, including pieces of the Clos St. Denis and Bonnes Mares Grand Crus. Joseph’s son Hervé followed, expanding the domaine’s holdings further, and these days it’s Hervé’s son, Cyprien, who runs the show (he ‘officially’ took the reins in 2013). Perhaps the hallmark achievement of Cyprien’s tenure has been his conversion of the domaine to biodynamic farming (certified in 2014). The family’s cherished vineyards are ploughed by horse, and as one of Arlaud’s importers has noted, Cyprien’s sister, Bertille, has become “one of the most important horse-ploughers in France.” How’s that for a credential?!

Cyprien’s approach in the cellar is described as “non-interventionist.” His cold cave, located in the village of Morey-St-Denis, enables him to minimize his use of sulfur, and his wines undergo very long, slow fermentations started only with native yeasts. As noted above, the common thread across the Arlaud range is high-toned refinement, which this wine delivers in spades: What fascinates me about this ’16 Clos de la Roche is how it combines power and persistence with a feeling of weightlessness. In the glass, it’s a brilliant dark ruby, with violet reflections, with highly perfumed aromas of ripe wild strawberries, black cherry blossoms, black tea leaves, rose petals and damp underbrush. It starts out with glycerol-rich, perfumed, sweet red fruit, utterly delicious and charming, then buttons up with some silty tannin, crushed-stone minerality, and a jolt of youthful acidity. Medium-plus in body and boasting a long, penetratingly aromatic finish, this is drinkable now with ample time in a decanter (an hour or so), but I’m determined to see how it blossoms given five years more bottle age. It is a wine that should age gracefully for at least 20 years, revealing more layers as more time passes. It is investment-grade red Burgundy by any measure and will be magic next to woodsy dishes incorporating duck, squab, or other game birds. Just, wow. Enjoy!