You probably haven’t tried or seen a wine from Lorraine sitting at your local wine shop or even as a trendy alternative on a wine list—it’s quite easy to gloss over the sparsely populated countryside here in northeastern France—which is why I’m hoping this singular bottle from Maison Crochet starts a renaissance because it’s the greatest sparkling rosé value of 2018!
Seriously, you won’t find a better French alternative—it shows class and mineral panache far beyond its price tag and puts a number of prominent Champagne labels to shame. There’s a reason for that: This is a historically significant area wedged between two powerhouse regions—Champagne and Alsace—and it was an important viticultural hub for generations. Before Champagne had strict laws and a defined area of production, many renowned producers would cull grapes from the vineyards within Lorraine, and, when the German Empire took control, the same grapes were then used in their own sparkling wine (sekt) production. Clearly, the pedigree is here. As for the wine itself? It’s lip-smackingly addicting, bursting with tension-filled red fruit and mineral savor. And it’s hand-crafted by a passionate, organic-minded family that’s working with fewer than a dozen acres. If this $25 Champagne-mimicking sparkler doesn’t grab your attention and make you purchase as much your fridge can hold, no other sparkling wine will!
Maison Crochet resides in the quiet commune of Bulligny (population 500 or so), southwest of Lorraine proper, where they’ve spent the last couple decades producing small-batch wines and managing a homey B&B. So, if Lorraine had so much traction historically, where is everyone now? During World War I, most of Lorraine saw major action and was thus left in a state of disrepair. The combination of destroyed vineyards, an exodus of locals, and newly minted wine appellations in France meant that the grape-growers in Lorraine—what remained of them—were no longer in demand.
It was evident to Lionel and Sandra Crochet, however, that this was a burgeoning region waiting to be rediscovered—the terroir, the history, the expertise was all here—so they made the move to Bulligny in the early 1990s. Since then, their son, Wilfried, has come aboard and assisted with their wonderful range of sparkling wines. The current release of “Cuvée Crochet” is predominately Gamay (fruity and aromatic; comparable to Champagne’s Pinot Meunier) with Pinot Noir entirely sourced from estate-owned vines. In the winery, each parcel is vinified separately and then blended together with 5% reserve wines (from 2015) before bottling and undergoing its second fermentation as in the méthode champenoise. It is lightly fined after 18 months of aging and labeled as ‘Brut’ despite only containing four grams of sugar per liter.
“Cuvée Crochet” radiates a light salmon with soft, silvery pink reflections throughout. This sparkling rosé flaunts an exquisite nose that is wrapped in wild strawberries, Rainier cherries, and tart raspberries, along with pineberry, pomegranate seed, crushed stones, redcurrant, white peach skin, white flowers, lemon peel, and a multitude of perfumed citrus blossoms. Ultimately, it is an astonishingly refreshing wine that will please just about every person that tilts the glass. The palate is ultra-fresh and medium bodied with a continuous stream of piquant red fruit with a tangy twist. The finish is harmoniously dry, accompanied with layers of crushed minerality and a lingering herbal presence. If your mission is to find a sparkling rosé that mirrors Champagne in this price range, “Cuvée Crochet” is at close as it gets. Enjoy now and over the next year in all-purpose stems or wide-mouthed tulips and, if there’s still some left after social hour, treat it with fresh seafood or the attached crab cakes recipe. Enjoy!
