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Apsara Cellars, “Amoenus Vineyard” Cabernet Sauvignon

California, United States 2015 (750mL)
$75.00
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Apsara Cellars, “Amoenus Vineyard” Cabernet Sauvignon

As I’ve noted here before, there’s a lot of value to found among the “side hustle” wines of the Napa Valley—i.e., personal projects launched by winemakers who also keep their day jobs at larger, more established wineries. Today’s wine is a minuscule-production Cabernet Sauvignon crafted by Robin Akhurst, who, in addition to being the winemaker at Swanson Vineyards, releases several boutique wines under his Apsara label, which he created with his wife, Aneeta.
Drawing on relationships he’s cultivated with Napa grape-growers over the years, Akhurst has access to prime fruit sources like Calistoga’s “Amoenus” vineyard—source of this sumptuous, powerful, multi-layered 100% Cabernet from the acclaimed 2015 vintage. Having worked with Napa Cabernet maestros such as Thomas Brown and Nils Venge (Envy Wines), Akhurst knows his way around this grape, and this wine is a perfect example of what we’re always on the hunt for here at SommSelect: A wine that could be served blind alongside wines 2-3 times its price without seeming out of place. You all know how fast Napa Cabernets climb into the triple digits. They’re sometimes well worth it. But I’m happy to spend less, and I’m even a little smug about it when the wine performs like this. Cabernet hounds, take note!
Robin Akhurst was born and raised in Scotland, and got his initial wine education at the University of Edinburgh. From there, his winemaking travels took him all over the world—to Burgundy, the Barossa Valley in Australia, Provence, and eventually the Napa Valley. During his time in California, he’s assembled a nice roster of vineyard sources for his Apsara lineup, including not just Amoenus in Calistoga but the “Las Madres” Vineyard in Carneros (Syrah); “Kick Ranch” in Sonoma County (Sauvignon Blanc); and “Kenefick Ranch,” also in Calistoga (Cabernet). 

Located in the foothills of Mount Saint Helena, the 100-acre Amoenus Vineyard is rooted in an assortment of volcanic soils, and is positioned to take in some Pacific Ocean air and fog—creating wide diurnal temperature swings which help to maintain freshness in the grapes. At harvest, the fruit was completely de-stemmed and hand-sorted, and the wine definitely has that precise, polished feel that distinguishes elite Napa Cabernets: It feels as if every grape was transported on a little velvet pillow and eased into the fermenter like a baby into a crib.

Well, that may be a little extreme, but this 2015 hits all the luxury buttons. Aged 18 months in 100% new French oak, it displays an opaque purple core with black and magenta reflections, shining like an opal in the glass. Aromas of blackcurrant, blueberry, cassis, black plums, pencil lead, tobacco, dark chocolate, and warm spice jump from the glass and are confirmed on the lush, full-bodied palate. Even at this young age it carries its oak perfectly, thanks to its concentration of fruit and well-balanced acidity, and there’s a smoky, stony minerality on the finish that speaks to its volcanic origins. It is structured enough to continue evolving over the next 10+ years, but will provide plenty of pleasure now given about 60 minutes to open in a decanter. Serve it at 60-65 degrees (leaning toward the cooler end) with something offering similarly concentrated flavors and textures (as in, something braised). This is the time of year for it! Enjoy!
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Country
United States
Region
California
Sub-Region
United StatesNapa Valley
Soil
Volcanic
Farming
Sustainable
Blend
Cabernet Sauvignon 100%
Alcohol
14.8
OAK
New French Barriques
TEMP.
60-65
Glassware
Bordeaux Stems
Drinking
Now-2030
Decanting
60 Minutes
Pairing
Braised Short Ribs

United States

Washington

Columbia Valley

Like many Washington wines, the “Columbia Valley” indication only tells part of the story: Columbia Valley covers a huge swath of Central
Washington, within which are a wide array of smaller AVAs (appellations).

Oregon

Willamette Valley

Oregon’s Willamette Valley has become an elite winegrowing zone in record time. Pioneering vintner David Lett, of The Eyrie Vineyard, planted the first Pinot Noir in the region in 1965, soon to be followed by a cadre of forward-thinking growers who (correctly) saw their wines as America’s answer to French
Burgundies. Today, the Willamette
Valley is indeed compared favorably to Burgundy, Pinot Noir’s spiritual home. And while Pinot Noir accounts for 64% of Oregon’s vineyard plantings, there are cool-climate whites that must not be missed.

California

Santa Barbara

Among the unique features of Santa Barbara County appellations like Ballard Canyon (a sub-zone of the Santa Ynez Valley AVA), is that it has a cool, Pacific-influenced climate juxtaposed with the intense luminosity of a southerly
latitude (the 34th parallel). Ballard Canyon has a more north-south orientation compared to most Santa Barbara AVAs, with soils of sandy
clay/loam and limestone.

California

Paso Robles

Situated at an elevation of 1,600 feet, it is rooted in soils of sandy loam and falls within the Highlands District of the Paso Robles AVA.

New York

North Fork

Wine growers and producers on Long Island’s North Fork have traditionally compared their terroir to that of Bordeaux and have focused on French varieties such as Cabernet Franc and Merlot.

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