Over the years, the Hansel vineyard holdings—all Chardonnay and Pinot Noir—have grown to 80 acres. All these vineyards are contiguous to one another, with the winery plopped right in the middle, and it’s Stephen Hansel—who helped his father, Walter, plant the very first vines on the property back in the ’70s—leading the estate’s small team in both the vineyards and cellar. Well-known Pinot/Chardonnay producer Tom Rochioli offers invaluable consultation, and has been a source of budwood for new vineyard plantings on the estate; in all, Hansel incorporates some 11 different clones in its assorted vineyard blocks, with the Cahill Lane Vineyard comprised entirely of “Wente Clone” Chardonnay rooted in clay soils mixed with sandy Goldridge loam; according to Stephen Hansel, it is typically the last Chardonnay block to be harvested, with the extended hang time lending the resultant wine that magical combination of richness and freshness.

Today’s 2015 was fermented and aged in French oak barrels (30% new), but you won’t find any of the heavy “butteriness” traditionally associated with California Chardonnay. This, I think, is a function of acidity more than anything else: When you consider that most of the greatest white Burgundies in the world are fermented/aged in 100% new oak and yet typically display very subdued oak character even in their youth, this is the acid and mineral elements in the wine asserting themselves and keeping the oak component at bay. In Hansel’s 2015 Cahill Lane, the oak influence is an accent rather than a dominant characteristic, lending a subtle warm spice note to a wine otherwise driven by bright fruit and florals. In the glass, it’s a luminous yellow-gold with straw and silver reflections, reminiscent of some of the more luxurious produce of the Côte de Beaune: aromas of yellow apple, pear, white peach, citrus peel, fresh cream, raw hazelnut, and white flowers. Nearly full-bodied and lushly textured, its considerable palate weight is leavened by a refreshing wave of freshness and delicate minerals that cleanse the palate and leaves the finish with delicate savory nuances akin to serious Burgundy. It will offer delicious drinking now and over the next 3-5 years: Serve it in large Burgundy stems at 50 degrees with a richer, white-fleshed fish like halibut and consider pouring it blind for one of your Burgundy-fanatic friends. They will be pleasantly surprised, believe me—especially when they learn the price. Don’t miss this!