Back in 2012, Jancis Robinson revisited the 2008 Bordeaux vintage and concluded with the following: “If you wanted to put one case of very smart red Bordeaux in your cellar for consumption, 2008 is worth considering.” Wedged between the critically acclaimed wines of 2005, ’09 and ’10, 2008 has been overshadowed—and as such, it’s a vintage brimming with primed and affordable wines. For those seeking amazing value, today’s beauty from Château Tour du Haut Moulin is Exhibit A.
Generally speaking, there are two types of Bordeaux: those that are soft, fruity, and built for youthful drinking, versus the elegantly fruited, yet densely structured styles destined for the cellar. The latter normally costs small fortunes and results in a tender lip as you impatiently wait years for these brawny wines to shed their armor. This is where vintage comes into play, and why everyone around here loves 2008. Overall, the wines have developed more quickly and, while it wasn’t a vintage that produced ultra-ripe and concentrated fruit (now the foundation for high-scoring years), it was one that delivered classically-styled Bordeaux. While 2008 hasn’t been entirely neglected (almost any savvy collector has a large chunk stowed away), it certainly hasn’t received proper love—and Château Tour du Haut Moulin has everything we love. It is traditional in the best way: there’s plenty of fruit but also plenty of gravelly savor. After our resoundingly successful offer back in March and a flood of praise from happy customers, we’ve decided to release the last little bit we have in stock. At twelve per person, you can expect it to disappear in a flash.
Though the Haut-Médoc encompasses most of the major communes (from Saint-Estèphe to Margaux and everything inbetween), Tour du Haut Moulin is in the geographically-centralized town of Cussac—Saint-Julien lies directly north and Margaux to the south. There aren’t any classed growths in the Central Médoc, but this is largely considered the epicenter for ‘Cru Bourgeois’ estates (and value). You’ll find a great number of
chateaux holding this quality designation here, which is reviewed annually by an overseeing board that puts each member through a three-stage quality process. Bear in mind, the
châteaux from the 1855 Classification don’t undergo quality control this rigorous!
Since 1870, five successive generations of the Poitou family have run this estate and its respective vineyards. In 2003, their hard work paid off when they were awarded—and have retained—Cru Bourgeois status. Despite recent renovations, their philosophies and the wine itself remain classic Bordeaux. Their grapes come from quarter-century vines that are situated on gravelly ridges just a couple miles inland from the Gironde estuary. The Poitous follow organic principles and their crop is thinned out before being harvested by hand. At their winery in the center of town, the juice fermented in concrete tanks and then aged in 30% new French oak for ~15 months. The final blend is 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 45% Merlot, and 5% Petit Verdot.
In the glass, Château Tour du Haut Moulin’s 2008 reveals a dark garnet, nearly opaque core moving out to orange bricking on the rim. You’ll notice traces of sediment on the initial pour so stand the bottle upright for several hours before decanting. On the nose, it’s old-school Bordeaux all the way: Dark-toned notes of cassis, dried plum, black cherry, and fig are followed by red flowers, bay leaf, cedar, crushed rock, leather, and subtle spices. For a decade-old wine, it has impressive structure and another 5+ years of aging left in its tank should you want to hold a few bottles back. On the palate, the wine is medium-plus bodied with silky tannins and gentle, well-integrated acidity. The supple mouthfeel plays nicely next to lingering rusticity here, with a combination of dark fruits and dried savory/earth that round out the finish. We were really impressed after decanting for 30 minutes and it reached its apex around 1.5 hours post-opening. Pair next to a
classic poulet roti (fancy talk for roasted chicken) or
this richer version—but don’t use this wine for the sauce! Cheers!
