The wine classicist in your life would argue that Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon has gotten too big, too sweet, too ‘culty,’ and too expensive. They’ll pull out their ’70s- and ’80s-era Cabs from Beaulieu, or Mondavi, or Mayacamas, and grouse that “they don’t make ‘em like they used to.” And while they may have a point, let’s not forget that there are still standard-bearers out there like ninety-something Philip Togni, whose wines are some of Napa Valley’s most enduring classics.
We’ve offered Togni’s “second” wine, called “Tanbark Hill,” several times, but today marks our first offer of the family’s top-of-the-line estate wine. I’m surprised we haven’t offered it every year since we created SommSelect—it’s one of the most important and undervalued Napa Cabernets on the market—but it’s not always so easy to get. The Tognis only produce about 1,600 cases of this wine annually, most of it sold through their mailing list, so we’re thrilled to have a small amount of their sensational 2015 to share with you today. These days, it’s Philip’s daughter, Lisa, who directs this resolutely farmstead-scale operation, and she’s a faithful adherent to the soil-driven, aromatic, powerful-yet-balanced style the estate is celebrated for. This is what I’d call a ‘cornerstone’ wine—an essential, long-lived collectible for anyone with an ambitious cellar. We can offer up to six bottles per person today until our stock runs out, which, if I know our subscribers, I’m certain it will.