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Pilcrow, “Pym Rae Vineyard” Cabernet Sauvignon

Other, United States 2015 (750mL)
$95.00
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Fruit
Earth
Body
Tannin
Acid
Alcohol

Pilcrow, “Pym Rae Vineyard” Cabernet Sauvignon

Today’s offer is the very definition of fine wine and, across any winemaking region, is one of the most exciting new labels to emerge in the last few years. Lucky for us, we don’t have to cross any oceans—Pilcrow is in our backyard! I didn’t hesitate in 2014, nor will I this time around: Pilcrow’s 100% Cabernet Sauvignon from Mount Veeder’s “Pym Rae” vineyard is among the greatest classically styled wines in Napa and by far the best I’ve had in 2015.
Sadly, it’s also the last vintage: As of 2016, the Tesseron family, owners of Fifth Growth Bordeaux Château Pontet-Canet, purchased an ornate Mount Veeder estate along with the surrounding “Pym Rae” vineyard—and the world paid attention. Why? Pontet-Canet is among the most consistently high-scoring Bordeaux on the market, thanks in large part to their biodynamic culture and the purity of juice that comes from those naturally farmed vines. So, when they saw the immense value of this pristine terroir, they pounced, making today your last chance to try Pilcrow’s soulful and silken expression of Pym Rae Cabernet in the resoundingly successful 2015 vintage. Earth, finesse, fruit purity, balance, freshness—it has everything. This extremely limited, eight-barrel-production will appeal to lovers of top-dollar classified-growth Bordeaux and those who remember (and long for) the Napa Valley’s iconic Cabernets of decades past. Though “Pym Rae” is now in the skilled hands of the Tesserons, I’m heartbroken that we can no longer enjoy Sara Beer’s small-batch Cabernet sensation from this prized site! Quantities are severely limited, so don’t miss out!
Pilcrow has been a labor of love for Sara, who, for her first winemaking project, sought out the most expressive high-altitude sites for Napa Cabernet. Perched way up in the Mayacamas Range—approaching 2,000 feet—she found the Pym Rae Vineyard. Situated in the Mount Veeder AVA, this gem of a vineyard, which well-known Napa vintner Robert Craig helped plant and later sourced fruit from, was previously owned by the late, great Robin Williams (Pym Rae is a combination of his first two children’s middle names). However, the Tesseron family, famous for their fine Cognac and ownership of Fifth Growth Pontet-Canet, bought the property in 2016 and declared Pym Rae’s grapes would no longer be sourced to artisanal producers like Sara. This is why today’s offer is so pressing—2015 is officially the last vintage!

Planted in 1990, the 18-acre Pym Rae Vineyard is one of the most desirable cool-climate sites on Mt. Veeder. The ground here is sedimentary, consisting of blue shale and sandstone topsoil. Sara’s small parcel here is sustainably farmed without irrigation and currently undergoing biodynamic conversion. With its high altitude and cool climate, the growing season is longer than most and yields can be half those of the valley floor appellations in Napa, resulting in a small, but concentrated, crop. The wine is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon and, after fermentation, it aged 22 months in French oak (25% new). The final wine was bottled unfined and unfiltered—an absolute necessity for this classic style. It rested an additional nine months in bottle before release.

In the glass, the wine shows an opaque crimson center with deep purple reflections moving out to slight ruby-pink hues on the rim. Here’s a nose that will put Bordeaux and old-school Napa lovers in a stupor: ripe red and black currant, crème de cassis, black plum, black raspberry, wild herbs, leather, tobacco leaf, freshly picked violets and roses, bell pepper, crushed stone, cedar, cacao, and delicately-woven baking spices—it’s all about finesse and purity. On the palate, the wine reveals a trinity of depth, savor, and grace with a rich core of black fruit, spice, mineral savor, and a touch of rusticity. Still, Pilcrow’s full-bodied Cabernet (but only 13.5% alcohol!) glides across the palate with freshness and soft-shouldered tannins. The marathon finish is exactly what I’d expect from a high-altitude, classically made, ultra-premium Mount Veeder Cabernet. After 60 minutes in a decanter, serve in your largest Bordeaux stems around 60-65 degrees to showcase the full spectrum of aromas and flavors, but stow a few away, drinking in five-year increments up until 2035. Whenever you consume this soon-to-be-obsolete Cabernet Sauvignon treasure, do so with a good ol’ fashion rack of lamb accompanied with a mixture of herbs. Cheers!
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Country
United States
Region
Other
Sub-Region
United StatesMount Veeder
Soil
Sedimentary w/ Blue Shale & Sandstone
Farming
Sustainable
Blend
Cabernet Sauvignon 100%
Alcohol
13.5
OAK
25% New French
TEMP.
60-65
Glassware
Large Bordeaux Stems
Drinking
Now-2030
Decanting
60 Minutes
Pairing
Rack Of Lamb w/ Herbs

United States

Washington

Columbia Valley

Like many Washington wines, the “Columbia Valley” indication only tells part of the story: Columbia Valley covers a huge swath of Central
Washington, within which are a wide array of smaller AVAs (appellations).

Oregon

Willamette Valley

Oregon’s Willamette Valley has become an elite winegrowing zone in record time. Pioneering vintner David Lett, of The Eyrie Vineyard, planted the first Pinot Noir in the region in 1965, soon to be followed by a cadre of forward-thinking growers who (correctly) saw their wines as America’s answer to French
Burgundies. Today, the Willamette
Valley is indeed compared favorably to Burgundy, Pinot Noir’s spiritual home. And while Pinot Noir accounts for 64% of Oregon’s vineyard plantings, there are cool-climate whites that must not be missed.

California

Santa Barbara

Among the unique features of Santa Barbara County appellations like Ballard Canyon (a sub-zone of the Santa Ynez Valley AVA), is that it has a cool, Pacific-influenced climate juxtaposed with the intense luminosity of a southerly
latitude (the 34th parallel). Ballard Canyon has a more north-south orientation compared to most Santa Barbara AVAs, with soils of sandy
clay/loam and limestone.

California

Paso Robles

Situated at an elevation of 1,600 feet, it is rooted in soils of sandy loam and falls within the Highlands District of the Paso Robles AVA.

New York

North Fork

Wine growers and producers on Long Island’s North Fork have traditionally compared their terroir to that of Bordeaux and have focused on French varieties such as Cabernet Franc and Merlot.

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