To taste such a rich and refined expression of Right Bank Bordeaux from a small, dedicated estate is a pleasure. To enjoy a youthful Pomerol of this quality, at such an affordable price point, is nearly unheard of. Les Grand Sillons is a name you’re probably unfamiliar with, but you certainly know the fame surrounding it: Less than a mile away, Châteaux Cheval Blanc, L’Evangile, Le Pin, and Vieux Château Certan reside with their gold-standard vines and three-and-four digit labels, making the small amount of affordable wine trickling out of Les Grand Sillons a much-desired anomaly.
I’ve previously mentioned one the major advantages of Pomerol is that you can, with a lot of hunting, find affordable gems that are within striking distance of the world’s finest sites. And with that in mind, could there be a better example than Les Grands Sillons? If you want true handcrafted wine from a tiny 2.8-hectare vineyard, this is a wonderfully rare chance to secure yourself a small stockpile of value Pomerol secretly snuggled amongst the high-flying, exorbitantly priced labels that populate the world’s most lauded wine lists. Despite there being no classification ranking in Pomerol, the region undoubtedly crafts some of the greatest Bordeaux you’ve (n)ever tasted. So, for a snapshot into the luxurious wines that are found here, today’s “Cuvée Amodis” is the hot ticket—it’s carefully crafted to showcase the fact that Pomerol can provide immense pleasure in its youth at a low price everyone can agree with.
Château Les Grands Sillons was founded in the 1920s by Philippe Dignac’s great grandfather, Bernard Thibeaut; Philippe now currently runs the estate along with his son, Stéphane. The two have been flying under the radar with their elegant, refined expressions of Right Bank Bordeaux for quite some time—though recently, they have garnered praise from a slew of French wine critics and connoisseurs. That’s especially the case for 2015, which brought excellent growing conditions and yielded beautiful wines for many Pomerol estates—even more so for the ones who tediously farm, sort, and handcraft their wines.
Philippe and Stéphane sustainably farm their vineyard—which only consists of three, 30-year-old plots neighboring their estate—comprised of mostly Merlot, followed by Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. The vines are planted in classic Pomerol soil types: alluvial sand with gravel over iron-rich clay (known locally as crasse de fer). The father and son duo oversee handpicking of the grapes, followed by an initial sort in the vineyards and a second sort in the cellar before a three-week maceration/fermentation in concrete vats and stainless steel. Their “Cuvée Amodis” sees no oak, and ultimately is constructed to drink as a polished, ultra-refined stunner right out of the gate.
Les Grands Sillons “Cuvée Amodis” pours an opaque dark crimson core with slight ruby-garnet hues towards the rim. It’s fully concentrated and shows great density, hinting at the powerful aromatics to come. Thanks to supple Merlot fruit and the generosity of the lauded 2015 vintage, perfectly-ripe notes of black raspberry, red plum, and red currants explode out of the glass, followed by fresh herbs, tobacco leaf, whole cloves, black cherries, dark chocolate, crushed rocks, violets, and a touch of leather. The medium-plus bodied palate boasts a silky, velvet-like mouthfeel; enticing flavors of plush cherries and plums mingle with savory notes of tobacco, leather, and herbs. Its opulent feel, however, is kept in check by a constant presence of mouthwatering acidity. I can’t remember a better-drinking 2015 Pomerol—if you’re not someone who is keen on keeping wines 10+ years in your cellar before enjoying, or don’t have/want a cellar, this truly is one of the best Pomerol values you can find. It’s pedigreed, powerful, and so incredibly delicious right now. Simply decant for 30 minutes before serving around 65 degrees in large Bordeaux stems. Better yet, open two bottles at the same time and and tackle the second several hours after the first has been drained. That, alongside a hearty, butter-basted medium-rare “Cowboy” ribeye, will make any gourmand smile. Cheers!
