I wouldn’t hesitate to crown Fabienne Cottagnoud the winemaking queen of Switzerland. Aside from her micro-estate, “Cave des Tilleuls,” I can name no other Swiss estate bottling world-class wines in such a mind-boggling array of styles. White, red, flor-affected, or sweet, Cottagnoud’s wines always steal my heart.
So, it’s no surprise they’ve become a respected source for Michelin-starred restaurants wishing to represent the absolute top tier of Switzerland’s rarefied wine culture. I only wish these wines were available outside of their 300% restaurant markups more often! But unfortunately, due to always-rising global demand and minuscule production (this cellar is not much larger than my living room), Cottagnoud remains an extremely rare find in the US. Case in point: We’ve only been able to offer this breathtaking single-vineyard Pinot Noir once in the history of SommSelect. With Burgundian elegance and dark fruit that is both intoxicatingly perfumed and uniquely Swiss, it is my hands-down favorite of the estate’s lineup. And wait until you hear how it is harvested...
[**Please Note: This wine is arriving from New York and will ship from our warehouse the week of October 22nd]
For the better part of two decades, Fabienne Cottagnoud has been producing trace amounts of phenomenal wines in her small, hometown-village appellation of Vétroz, located in the southern Swiss region of Valais. Although Swiss growers are not typically given much attention in the US, I have found the country—and especially its Valais region—to be a consistently rewarding source of unique and soulful wine. Today's selection is a perfect example: Fabienne’s 2014 Pinot Noir is obviously a product of meticulous, organic grape-growing and a deeply talented hand in the cellar.
Fabienne is a devoutly natural grape farmer, relying on both organic and biodynamic principles in her vineyards. A brief stroll through her vines tells the whole story: lush green grass, a diversity of insects, and wildflowers indicate a total absence of chemicals and herbicides. The location of her vineyard parcels—narrowly wedged between Alpine forests or alongside gardens and flora on the valley floor—indicates a grower who understands the necessity of polyculture and maintaining nature’s inherent balance. Of course, doing everything “the right way” has its consequences; Fabienne can only produce a small amount of wine each year, most of which is quickly snatched up by her eager fans. A regular at the top of sommelier wish lists is Fabienne’s exceptional Pinot Noir de Vétroz, which we’re thrilled to offer today. It’s depth, detail, and unique terroir are undeniable, but I think the mystique also might have a little to do with how the fruit is harvested: Believe it or not, the vines that produce today’s bottle are located in a vineyard so steep and remote that Fabienne must rent a helicopter each autumn to transport grape clusters down to her house and cellar in the valley below!
Cottagnoud’s 2014 Pinot Noir is, as always, an electric splash of purple and ruby in the glass. Aromas of black cherry, mulberry, violets, and freshly cut roses overflow from the glass, but do not be mistaken—this is not a modern “fruit bomb” Pinot Noir. On the contrary, it is a wine that expresses its terroir of origin in painstaking detail. A powerful current of granite and slate runs through every sip, and the brisk breeze and wildflowers of the Swiss Valais are never far from my mind while savoring this wine. It’s a perfect example of why it’s sometimes worth going to lengths to acquire a specific wine, from a specific site. After all, I can think of few bottles that express this unique terroir so flatteringly—it’s a singular wine, and an important reference point for Pinot Noir outside of Burgundy. I expect this 2014 vintage to continue improving for another three to six years, but please don’t hesitate to pull the cork immediately and serve in large Burgundy stems at 55-60 degrees. If you have some time in your schedule to make a special night out of this bottle, I strongly encourage you to try your hand at
Zürcher Geschnetzeltes. Granted, the dish’s name doesn’t exactly roll off the tongue, but I promise it’s one of Switzerland’s finest culinary contributions and a lights-out companion for today’s outstanding wine.