Whatever your source for information about vintages, you likely know that 2014 was a magical year for white Burgundy. One respected writer called it “the greatest white wine vintage [he’s] ever tasted,” and as you may know from reading our offers, I loved the vintage for whites and reds alike (and I’ve noticed that wines in both categories have improved dramatically since their initial releases).
The 2014s have an “X” factor: something that goes beyond aroma, flavor, and texture, something that cannot be counted, nor dressed-up with numbers and stars. Add to the mix a benchmark producer like Comtes Lafon, and, well, you’ve got as sure a bet as exists in wine. We were fortunate to get our hands on a few magnums of this wine; there were only 22 barrels produced versus a typical 50. Why? Early hail erased part of the 2014 crop, leaving Dominique Lafon with less fruit, but what remained was of meticulous quality, driven by the estate’s fierce commitment to biodynamic farming. Whether you’re eyeballing this as a long-term investment, a short-term investment, or “drink now,” your return is significant. Many 2014 White Burgundies from top-notch estates are quietly disappearing from the market, as sommeliers, collectors, and wine enthusiasts are coolly hoarding their fair share. Consequently, our stock is so limited that we can offer just one bottle per customer today, but at least it’s a magnum—one guaranteed to thrill when you find the right occasion to open it. [
Please note: This wine is not available for “Build a Case” orders due to its size.]
The Lafon name is synonymous with Meursault. Dominique is a descendant of Jules Lafon, who married a girl from Meursault and inherited a few vineyards. In 1923, as the mayor of Meursault, he revived the tradition of celebrating the end of grape harvest with a meal, bringing together the workers with the owners and their friends. It is known as “La Paulée de Meursault,” an integral part of Burgundy’s “Three Glorious Days,” which also includes the spotlight charity auction at the Hospices de Beaune as well as a formal dinner at Clos de Vougeot. The Lafon estate of today was greatly shaped by Jules’ inheritance and his relationships with sharecroppers. When Dominique's father, René, took-over in the 1950s, he re-planted the vineyards and made a dramatic step towards estate bottled wines (no purchased fruit).
The idea that a producer would own his/her land, farm his/her land, and make his/her own wine was ambitious at the time—requiring grit, patience, and foresight. Without a doubt, Dominique Lafon inherited these characteristics and pointed the domaine in a “never looking back” direction in the mid-1980s. He gradually terminated the family’s long-term leases on vineyards and became fascinated with organic cultivation in the late 1980s. By 1992, the estate was organic, but Dominique aimed higher. He experimented with biodynamic farming on three hectares. In comparison to the organic vineyards, he noticed that his biodynamic vineyards looked better: vines fit and perfectly lean, healthy grapes with spunk and glow. Dominique converted the entire estate to biodynamics in 1998 (in the world’s most unforgiving wine region, no less). Regardless of the 2014 vintage hype, today’s wine syncs with the Latin phrase Ne Plus Ultra, (Not Further Beyond), essentially a perfect example of its kind in every way.
The backbone of Lafon’s mint-condition Chardonnay comes from the vineyards of “En la Barre,” “En Luraule,” “Les Crotots,” and “Clos de la Baronne.” A blend of very old vines and younger vines, the average age hovers around 32 years. After scrupulous sorting, the fruit is gently pressed with grape clusters left intact, and the juice settles for 24 hours before being transferred to barrels (a small percentage of which are new). Slow, cool, spontaneous fermentation lasts about three months with a conservative “case-by-case” stirring of the lees. From there, the wines are decanted into older barrels, where they rest for 18-22 months, after which they are blended back together in tank before bottling. For those of you who know what Lafon is capable of, this bottle is spot-on: It has exceptional purity and clarity, combining modern polish and place-driven authenticity.
In the glass, the 2014 Domaine des Comtes Lafon Meursault shimmers a bright straw-gold with platinum reflections. Youth does not box in this Chardonnay (many critics noted how drinkable the wines were when young): It seamlessly unrolls into lime blossom, salty hazelnut, and fall colors of orchard fruit. On the palate, the fruit is fleshy and palate-coating with plenty of mineral backbone to check it: crumbles of wet limestone, nutty clay, and floral spice. An effortless juxtaposition of richness and precision with an unhurried finish, this wine will age another 10+ years in your cellar with ease. If enjoying this bottle sooner rather than later, decant at least an hour before serving and pour the wine just under cellar temperature (55 degrees) into Burgundy stems; keep your portion sizes on the smaller side (three ounces at a time) to capture the maximum aromatics. Pick out your favorite local fish and garnish it with the irresistible lemon-parsley sauce in the attached recipe. Invite over a few of your dearest friends and have your own “La Paulée” party—trust me, it will be a memorable one!
