Many people age wines to open on special occasions: a child’s graduation; an anniversary; a milestone birthday. But what about a nice dinner on a Tuesday night? Isn’t that special? You can make it extra so with today’s decade-old, direct-from-Bordeaux treasure from Château Haut-Blaignan.
Not all of us have wine cellars, or patience, but that shouldn’t prevent us from enjoying wines with age—it’s an experience every wine lover should have, and nowhere else is there as much mature wine in pristine condition than in Bordeaux. The region’s merchant (négociant) network is unparalleled, which is crucial to expanding the market for small, family-run properties such as Haut-Blaignan. The “Cru Artisan” designation on the label is an important one, a badge of honor worn by a handful of estates in the Médoc that have remained in family hands, operating on an artisanal scale. Founded in 1945, Haut-Blaignan is the pride of the Brochard-Cahier family, who tend to a relatively small collection of vineyards planted equally to Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, and it’s nothing short of stunning to see what their 2008 achieves at this price point: Although still full of youthful power, it has begun to take on the intriguing patina of age, creating a wine experience far beyond what anyone has a right to expect at $25. This is Bordeaux’s superpower, and we’re giddily along for the ride today—I’d strongly encourage you to jump on board!
Given the price of this bottle, 50% Cabernet Sauvignon is a significant percentage, and its character shows through clearly in the structure and flavor profile of today’s 2008. Sourced from vines averaging 25 years of age, the wine aged 12 months in French oak barriques before its initial release; it remained in the cool, dark cellars of its Bordeaux négociant until it was shipped directly to us, and its perfect condition at 10 years of age is readily evident when you pull the cork and pour a glass: There’s still a vibrancy to the ruby-garnet hue, enough that you might think the wine was younger if assessing it blind. A rush of aromas greets you with a few swirls: black and red currant, plum, and black cherry fruit is layered with secondary notes of leather, cedar, tobacco, pencil lead, and warm spice. Medium-plus in body, with fine-grained, dusty tannins, it still has muscle and likely another 10 years of positive evolution ahead of it. Open one now and decant it (watching for fine sediment) about 30 minutes before serving in Bordeaux stems at 60-65 degrees. It is spot-on Left Bank Bordeaux in every way, equally rich in fruit and earthy savor and ready to lend profundity to a great meal. Beef dishes are an obvious move, but we decided to take it in a vegetarian direction this time. Some “meaty” mushrooms and this wine are a match made in heaven—a special occasion in my book. Enjoy!