One of our favorite “case studies” is finding values that mimic the best regions, and our eyes are trained on Pinot Noir in Germany, where we keep finding wines that taste far more expensive than their modest price tags. Blind-tasting Allendorf’s Spätburgunder would prove challenging for even the most experienced tasters—there’s no doubt this is an elegant, mineral-driven Pinot Noir sprinkled with delicate berry fruit, but from where?
Though I had previously fallen in love with this wine during my non-stop, sensory-overload trip throughout Germany earlier in the year, it was still a wonderful treat when I unknowingly tasted it again last week. While I was rummaging around the warehouse, one of my team rushed up with a glass of red and shoved it in my hand, challenging me to a “quick blind.” I smelled it—definitely Old World Pinot Noir—and then tasted: spice, mineral grip, lively fruit, impressive structure, honestly, I was torn between which village of Burgundy this was from and I was guessing $40 retail. I couldn’t have been more ecstatic when this Rheingau was revealed; it just confirms all the hype we’ve poured into Spätburgunder this year. And, at such an attractively low price, this has easily become one of the great red values of this year. Graceful, terroir-driven Pinot Noir around $20? It rarely happens, but when it does, you can count me in every single time.
The Allendorf family’s roots can be traced back to the 13th century, but wine wasn’t their métier until Philipp Anton Allendorf founded the estate...in 1773! With nearly a quarter-millennium under its belt, the family has accumulated over 140 acres, and, thanks to Fritz Allendorf’s leadership in the second half of the 20th century, most of these vines lie in prestigious sites like Hasensprung. Currently, the estate has been taken over by Fritz’s son, Ulrich, and he works tirelessly to continue the traditional winemaking practices of his father and the countless generations before him.
An integral part of their continued success is Allendorf’s involvement as a prominent member in the VDP (Verband Deutscher Prädikatsweingüter), an exclusive organization that monitors quality from respected terroirs. It’s essentially a private stamp of approval stating that your handcrafted wine is a perfect representation of its respective terroir. This specific bottle is a regional wine, or “Gutswein,” from Rheingau (comparable to a “Bourgogne” label). It comes entirely from family-owned vineyards throughout Rheingau, stretching down the Rhine River from the villages of Hallgarten to Assmannhäusen. Because of this large selection, soils range from clayey loams to pure slate. In the winery, the Allendorfs are all about respecting the wine’s natural progression—fermentations are long and aging occurs in large, neutral oak barrels that are stowed in their centuries-old cellar.
Given the astounding price, prestigious Rheingau vineyard sites, and classic winemaking, Allendorf’s Spätburgunder
trocken (dry) is a magnificent feat for German Pinot Noir. It displays a radiating ruby core that transitions to soft pink hues on the rim and after some air, the aromas begin pouring out. My recommendation would be to decant for one hour—since the wine is bottled under screw cap, allowing it to breathe will drastically change its aromatics and palate profile. Once the wine receives enough air, it will reveal beautiful aromas of freshly picked strawberries, plum skin, red currants, pomegranate, cranberry, fresh herbs, underbrush, crushed stones, black tea, and soft spices. The palate shows a refreshingly lithe frame with soft tannins and a multitude of just-ripened red fruits. Whether enjoyed now or in five years, it’s just a wonderfully crafted Pinot Noir that performs way above its “
Gutswein” level—and it deserves an equally savory dish in this cranberry-balsamic roast beef. Enjoy!
