How many California producers, or rather, how many Burgundy producers can you name that hold their wines in the cellar for 30+ months before release? It’s a rarity to see winemakers aging their wines extensively and allowing them to rest an additional year in bottle, but that’s exactly what Vöcal has done: After nearly three years of aging, their first-class Pinot is ready for your enjoyment, and trust me when I say it was worth the wait.
This breathtaking bottling from the Santa Cruz Mountains isn’t just “any other” Pinot: “Lilo Vineyard” springs to the fore of California greats. But, Vöcal’s love for this vineyard goes deeper, much deeper, than a bottle of wine—their entire operation was formed because of this prized site! After an agonizing wait, fruit from the coveted vineyard became available for purchase in 2012, prompting renowned winemaker Ian Brand and ‘Top Sommelier’ Ted Glennon to launch Vöcal. With only a handful of vintages under their belts, this joint enterprise has achieved spectacular results in what can only be considered record time. I’m certain this single-vineyard coastal wine will charm lovers of top wines from Oregon and Burgundy alike, as it shares more in common with these regions than the vast majority of California Pinot Noirs. In terms of quality-to-price, it’s among the best on the U.S. market today and, with additional aging, its stock will only continue to rise.
Over the years, the Santa Cruz Mountains appellation has inspired wine critics and sommeliers to take notice of the stunning Burgundy-esque wines pouring out of this unique terroir. The sprawling and rolling appellation houses small, homegrown producers, some of which, in short order, have surpassed many (if not all) of California’s already-established powerhouses. Thanks to the breathtaking landscape that mirrors Tolkien’s Middle Earth, the Santa Cruz Mountains are home to myriad microclimates that show eerie similarities to top-flight Burgundy when properly crafted. This singular Lilo Vineyard absorbs Monterey Bay’s coastal influences, which delivers judicious levels of fog and wind that are crucial to the finicky, cool-climate temperament of Pinot Noir.
Encircled by towering, ancient Redwoods, Lilo is perched 800 feet above Monterey Bay with vines rooted in sandy loam. The small Vöcal team farms with sustainable practices in place and after hand harvesting in late August of 2014, the Pinot Noir saw a 30% whole-cluster fermentation and then aged 19 months in just 12 lightly seasoned French oak barrels, three of which were new. Afterwards, it was bottled and laid to rest for an additional year before its official release. Per usual around here, we source wines with only the best provenance: these bottles were purchased from Ted Glennon himself.
Vöcal’s 2014—their current release (!)—shows a brilliant dark ruby core with bright pink hues on the rim. It reveals elegant, forested aromas alongside wild berry fruit, walking the delicate tightrope between the Old and New World. Though leading with juicy notes of wild strawberry, black raspberry, and huckleberry, inviting aromas of underbrush, sage, and damp leaves flash into the mix. With more air, purple and red flowers emerge alongside crushed stones and delicate baking spices. The palate is supple and energetic with wonderful lifts of black cherry, orange zest, and damp herbs, and a graceful finish is accompanied by exotic spice and silky layers of mouthwatering red fruit. Although beautiful in its youth, Vöcal’s “Lilo Vineyard” will continue developing complex secondaries and amazing levels of depth over the next decade. Allow a 30-60 minute decant and serve around 60 degrees in your largest Burgundy stems. This is first-rate Pinot, so treat it like you would a top Burgundy: A tender poultry dish will do wonders—try the attached tea smoked duck if you really want to impress!