When experts talk about a wine communicating a sense of terroir, they’re most often referencing the soil the wine is grown in. But terroir is more than just dirt, however visceral the connection to the dirt may be—like that unmistakable oyster-shell minerality in Chablis wines, for instance, or the smoky, savory notes we pick up in volcanic wines. Soil may indeed be the most important component, but terroir is more broadly defined as the “total natural environment” of a vine.
In this regard, I can’t think of a wine that more vividly evokes its terroir than Marisa Cuomo’s “Fiorduva.” (For some visual accompaniment, check this out!) This deep and structured white, crafted from hyper-local grape varieties native to the Amalfi Coast, captures not just the soil character but all the smells and tastes of the surrounding area—the Mediterranean Sea breeze; the herbs and fruits and countless other things that grow on Amalfi’s rocky terraces; even the bright, shimmering quality of the light in the region. If you’ve ever visited the Amalfi Coast, this wine will send you back in much the same way the critic Anton Ego revisited his childhood in that climactic scene from “Ratatouille.” I’m also compelled to mention that just about every critical accolade out there has been lavished on this wine: It’s not merely evocative, it’s serious, and ranks consistently among the top-rated whites in Italy. When the occasion calls for something a little different, something that’ll ratchet up the excitement level, this is a perfect wine to reach for.
If this all sounds a little fever-pitched, my apologies: Sometimes, Italian whites need a little extra push. This 2016 is not the kind of Italian white you fall in love with on vacation and later find it doesn’t really translate back at home. This one resonates, and not just among Italophiles. Any wine list populated by a diversity of great white wines is likely to include this one, because it is such a benchmark. Much like the whites of Santorini, for example, “Fiorduva” is a relatively easy wine to get your mind around, because it so readily evokes its place.
Namesake Marisa Cuomo and her husband, Andrea Ferraioli, founded their small winery in 1980, in the coastal village of Furore. Located about 20 kilometers east of Positano, Furore is one of those impossible-looking seaside towns that climbs right out of the water, with steep cliffs overlooking secluded coves. Terraced vineyards climb up the sides of these cliffs in an unruly patchwork, rooted in soils of dolomitic limestone, and one can only imagine the amount of grueling manual labor that goes into maintaining them. The Marisa Cuomo estate now farms about 10 hectares of vineyards in total (3.5 of which are estate-owned), with production comprised of about 60% white wines.
“Fiorduva” is Cuomo’s top-of-the-line white, comprised of the über-local varieties Fenile, Ginestra, and Ripoli. The exhaustive book Native Wine Grapes of Italy, by Ian D’Agata, includes short entries on each: Fenile is so named for the “straw-yellow color of its berries”; Ginestra for its floral aromas reminiscent of the flower of the same name (ginestra is a yellow-flowered broom shrub); while Ripoli contributes a “honeyed” note.
Fiorduva 2016 underwent a slow, cool fermentation in oak barrels before being transferred to stainless steel tanks for about four months’ aging before bottling. The oak influence may contribute to its deep straw-yellow hue, which is flecked with gold and orange, and it lends texture as well, but ultimately this wine is all about fruit and herbs and wildflowers. Aromas of acacia honey, salted lemon, apricot, and assorted tropical fruits mingle with those of yellow flowers, wild herbs, salt air, and crushed white stones. It is well-concentrated, approaching medium-plus in body, with a rush of minerality and acidity lending freshness and propelling a long and aromatic finish. It is so clearly a “coastal” white in the same way as great Muscadet from France or Albariño from Spain, albeit with a richer, sunnier feel to it. You’ll thrill to it now after 15-30 minutes of air and will find it even more luscious and expressive with a little time in the cellar—it will go 5-7 years easily, and maybe more, but its greatest heights are likely to be reached within the next three or so. Pair it with your favorite piccata preparation, be it with fish or chicken, and try to remember a time when food and wine melded so perfectly. It’s going to be tough to top! Enjoy!
