Decanter magazine rightly compared Le Domaine d'Henri’s Michel Laroche to Michel Chapoutier of the northern Rhône and Olivier Humbrecht of Alsace, but I don’t think a claim of any magnitude could overstate the brilliance of the man behind today’s irresistible expression of Premier Cru Chablis. Almost everyone will be unfamiliar with this nearly brand-new domaine, but it wouldn’t take more than a minute to find someone in Chablis who will sing Laroche’s praises.
His family has tended Chablisienne vines for 300+ years, owned more Grand Cru vines than anyone else, and masterfully shaped themselves into a blue-chip brand and one of the largest domaines in Chablis. And, with all this pedigree and prestige, what did he choose to do? Return to his artisanal roots by selling off the iconic Domaine Michel Laroche and establishing Le Domaine d'Henri (named for his father). Today’s 2014—just their third vintage—is a paragon of quality, reaching the highest level of Chablis without coming remotely close to breaking the bank. Even better, this hails from their parcels within Premier Cru “Fourchaume”—a coveted stretch of land that draws heavy comparisons to the nearby seven fabled Grand Crus of Chablis. So, a recap: centuries of vine growing expertise, traditional craftsmanship from a Chablis master, and a powerful, complex white Burgundy that will age decades. It’s about as classic and region-defining as any wine can get; we can’t wait for you to experience it.
The Laroches are a family steeped in Chablis viticulture, with records indicating their ancestors owned vines here in the late 1600s. So, obviously, it takes a brazen man to hit the “reset” button on a thriving business for a return to humble beginnings—but that’s exactly what Michel Laroche did when he sold off Domaine Laroche in 2010. This lucrative estate, which was handed down to him in the late 1960s by his parents, Henri and Madeleine, held (and still holds) the largest percentage of Grand Cru Chablis vineyards, but this didn’t matter to Michel—all he wanted to keep were the historic vineyards he had originally inherited from his father. Most importantly, the family’s prized possessions in the Premier Cru “Fourchaume.” With this, and several other hectares of land throughout the region, he created Domaine d’Henri, a traditionalist approach to classic, terroir-driven Chablis.
Domaine d’Henri has a few different bottlings of Fourchaume, and in classic Burgundian fashion, you’d miss the slight variations on the label without a magnifying glass. This is sourced from their few parcels stretching up and down Fourchaume, Chablis’ most northern Premier Cru site. The Laroches choose from vines ranging from 20-55 years of age, all of which are farmed sustainably, or what they call “95% organic.” After hand harvesting this 2014, grapes were sorted in the winery and a spontaneous fermentation, both alcoholic and malolactic, occured in a combination of (mostly) stainless steel and one-to-four-year-old Burgundy and demi-muid barrels. They don’t adhere to a strict aging regimen, but seeing as they realize truly good Chablis needs time to develop, aging can range from 1-2 years.
Le Domaine d'Henri’s 2014 “Fourchaume” is a tremendous Chablis from start to finish—tense, textured, bracing and, ultimately, profound. It shines a deep straw-yellow with bright green and platinum reflections. The trifecta of power, depth, and precision of top-level Chablis is entirely evident in this bottle, fused together by palpable energy and textured fruit. Green apple skins, citrus blossoms, candied lime peel, white peach, hazelnuts, Meyer lemon, wet stones—it’s all here in heavy concentration. The medium-plus-bodied palate is bright and piquant with wonderful roundness, persisting waves of signature chalk/saline minerality, and a structure that ensures a long life for this wine—which is what you should expect from a Chablis expert working with a vineyard that rivals Grand Crus. If you are a white Burgundy drinker, this is a no-brainer you can open tonight (with a 30 minute decant) or lay down for 10-15 years to come. If you really want to lose yourself in this wine, follow the attached recipe for grilled lemon-parsley veal chops. Cheers!
