De Forville’s “Loreto” Barbaresco, a single-vineyard bottling from one of the greatest single vineyards in the appellation, has always been one of the best—if not the best—values in an increasingly expensive category. But this ’15 is something else—it was easily one of the best wines in the room at that tasting, which included many heavy hitters from France as well. It combines the appealing ripeness and depth of 2015 with the tension and aromatic intricacy we all want from Barbaresco. It offers that magical combination of accessibility in its youth and obvious aging potential. I could go on, but I think (I hope) I’ve made my point: The 2015 “Loreto” is a sure-thing investment for your Italian wine portfolio. Building a cellar? Buy a case and put it away! You can thank us later.

This bottling was long known as “Vigneto Loreto,” but its label these days says just “Loreto”—but regardless, the name refers to De Forville’s piece of the famed Barbaresco cru, Ovello, a 20-hectare site and the northernmost vineyard in the village of Barbaresco. It’s a south-facing parcel, angling both to the southeast and southwest, with the calcareous marl soils typical of the region—although it is said to have a relatively high percentage of clay, which lends intensity to the wines bottled from it. Loreto has a southwestern exposure, and De Forville’s vines on the site exceed 35 years of age, which is readily evident in the concentration, structure, and ‘completeness’ of this 2015.

The De Forville family began producing wine in Barbaresco in the mid-1800s. Gioachino De Forville made Nebbiolo the family’s focus early on before being succeeded by his son, Vincenzo, who was followed by his nephew, Paolo, who passed the torch to his daughter, Mafalda, who is honored now by her sons and current proprietors, Valter and Paolo. Confused yet? To recap, De Forville is a small family business that has endured two World Wars and overcome countless challenges during its 150-year evolution from rural farm to respected winemaking dynasty. This multi-generation commitment to grueling manual labor, tradition and excellence is how remote hillsides become the world’s greatest wine terroirs. In the last decade, De Forville has grown into a mid-size estate by Piedmont standards. There is a clear line drawn between the family’s modestly priced, fresh and quaffable young-release Dolcetto, Barbera, and Chardonnay, versus the more serious, barrel-aged Nebbiolo-based Barbaresco bottlings for which they are known. “Loreto” is the top-of-the-line wine from the estate, fermented in stainless steel and transferred to large (50-60 hectoliter) oak botti for two years of aging, followed by several months of bottle aging before release.

The 2015 “Loreto” is my favorite kind of 2015: One that fully captures the exuberance of a ripe year without feeling fat or overblown. In the glass, it’s a radiant garnet-red moving to pink and orange at the rim, with aromas that suggest a basket-full of fresh-picked berries and flowers: crushed red and black raspberry, currant, black cherry, blood orange peel, sandalwood, black tea, dried rose petals, and tobacco all fill the immediate area as you swirl the glass. It is taut and vibrant on the palate, leaning toward medium-plus in body but sure to get there with about five more years in bottle. It’s a cherry-fruited thriller right now after 30-60 minutes of air, but be sure to lay as many bottles as possible down for further evolution: 10-15 years is a sure bet, and 20 is hardly out of the question. Serve it at 60-65 degrees in Burgundy stems with your most reliable “go-to” recipe for Nebbiolo wines: Mine is mushroom risotto. Enjoy!