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Battenfeld Spanier, Riesling Trocken

Rheinhessen, Germany 2016 (750mL)
Regular price$26.00
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Battenfeld Spanier, Riesling Trocken

Some of the hottest wines on the world market today are those labeled ‘GG’, or Grosses Gewächs—essentially single-vineyard German wines that are the equivalent to Burgundy’s Grand Crus. These full-bodied, explosively mineral wines are made in minute quantities, are among the greatest whites of the world, and, as a result, are becoming increasingly harder to find (and, of course, more expensive).
One of my most memorable ‘GG’ bottles came earlier this year while roving around Germany. We had stopped in a local strausse, or wine tavern, and the sommelier poured me a taste of Battenfeld Spanier “Kirchenstück.” At the time, I had never tasted it before, but I was immediately blown away with its mind-boggling marriage of aromatic complexity, texture, energy, and minerality. I quickly committed the name to memory and snapped a photo in hopes that I would cross its path down the road. Fast forward to last week and a bottle of Battenfeld Spanier landed on my desk. Though not the ‘GG’ that had commanded my attention months ago, I would argue it makes a stronger case for value: This 2016 Riesling Trocken is 100% biodynamic (a true rarity in Germany) and crafted with a genuinely traditional mindset—in large wooden barrels, without manipulation. You can search the shelves of any store and I can almost guarantee no dry Riesling will match the price, quality, and profound depth found in today’s offer. This is ‘GG’ caliber at an unmatched price. Like I did with my first bottle months ago, anyone privy to the immense value Riesling provides should pounce on this wine—we can offer it by the case! This is a wine to drink over the next few years and far beyond. Trust me, you’ll want this around for the long haul.
It’s extremely hard for me to comprehend the associated price tag for Battenfeld Spanier’s Riesling Trocken, especially when considering the amount of care that goes into their biodynamically farmed vines and their ultra-traditional winemaking methods. Started by Oliver Spanier and his wife, Carolin Spanier-Gillot, in 1992 with the help of the Battenfelds, they immediately began converting all of their hectares to natural farming. Throughout this transition, they’ve become one of the leading biodynamic pioneers in the Rheinhessen appellation. To truly understand the power and precision of these wines, it’s best to hear it from the source: The Spanier’s slogan, “Liquid Earth,” epitomizes what they’re beautifully expressing in today’s wine. As Oliver passionately states, “Riesling is my vision. In the Wonnegau, no grape is able to translate light and soil into wine as precisely or succulently.”

The Wonnegau? Where/what is the Wonnegau? Located due west of the town of Worms, in the southern reaches of the Rheinhessen, this commune is brimming with limestone and marl. If you are a sucker for electric minerality and crushed rock sensations in your wines, look no further than this one. The vines are farmed biodynamically throughout these steep hillsides and after the grapes are hand harvested, they undergo a natural fermentation and traditional élevage in large, 2,400-liter wood barrels. No chemicals or pesticides in the vineyard, no additives or cultured yeasts in the winery—this is unadulterated, vibrantly mineral, impeccably pure Riesling from start to finish. It is labeled “Trocken” (the German word for “dry”). 

In the glass, Battenfeld Spanier’s 2016 Riesling Trocken shines a platinum silver-yellow with bright green reflections throughout. After 15 minutes in a decanter, it explodes with crushed mineral components and youthful aromatics of laser-sharp citrus and stone fruit. Everything there is to love about bone-dry Riesling is here in spades: candied lime peel, citrus blossoms, white peach skin, green mango, exotic spices, petrol, ginger, white flowers, honeysuckle, and, again, intense layers of crushed chalk and river rock. While most 2015s showcased the more voluptuous ripeness of Riesling, the ‘16s are brawnier, fiercer, more mineral-driven—really, the authentic soul of the grape. The medium-plus palate is high-toned and layered with vivid fruits, spice, and unending waves of minerality. This is one of the more serious Riesling Trocken wines and it continues evolving as it soaks up air, so be sure not to drain your bottles too quickly! Pair with pork and shrimp spring rolls that will be sure to match the wine’s freshness and consume in Riesling stems or all-purpose whites over several hours. Keep in mind, however, that this will age beautifully over the next decade, so be sure to stow away some bottles—your patience will be handsomely rewarded. Cheers!
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