Everything you read about Anne and Hervé Sigaut describes them as “low-key” and “humble.” And, as is so often the case, the wines they make reflect their personalities—although humble and low-key are not the adjectives I’d use. Theirs are not showy wines, but they’re a long way from simple—refined, elegant, and nuanced would all be superior word choices. Another way to describe Sigaut’s style is to think of it as bespoke tailoring rather than designer-label flash.
With about seven hectares of vineyards, most of them in their home base of Chambolle-Musigny, the Sigauts may be unassuming, but they’ve attracted a devoted cult following among sommeliers and collectors. Count me as a cult member—whenever we’re offered any of their wine, we greedily snap it up, and today’s silky and seductive Chambolle-Musigny amply rewarded our good faith. If ever a wine epitomized the classic character of Chambolle—perfumed, lifted, a touch savory, caressingly textured—this is it. If you are not yet familiar with the Sigauts, do yourself a favor and pick up some of this: It is a modern benchmark, plain and simple, and we can offer up to six bottles per person until our small supply disappears.
Although we’ve also offered Sigaut wines from Morey-Saint-Denis, their calling card is undoubtedly Chambolle-Musigny. While they don’t own any Grand Crus in the village, they farm a bevy of old-vine Premier Crus, including “Fuées,” “Chatelots,” “Noirots” and “Sentiers.” Hervé and Anne first took over the property back in 1990 and have made numerous updates since, but at the core of everything are meticulously tended old vines. Their approach is best described as ‘lutte raisonnée,’ which is to say, ‘practicing organic’ except in extreme situations, while in the cellar the wines see very little new oak (about 15% in this case) during aging. There’s great focus and purity to the wines, up and down the lineup.
Overall, the Sigauts bottle eight different Chambolle-Musigny wines, including five Premier Crus. This “village” bottling starts the party in grand style, incorporating estate-owned fruit from four different sites: The principal source is a vineyard called “Les Babillières,” at the south end of the village, which is complemented by smaller percentages from “Les Chardannes,” “Aux Croix” and “Aux Combottes,” all of them just downslope from Chambolle’s band of Premier Crus. Average vine age in these prime lieux-dits is 35 years.
As we’ve noticed in our tastings, and as the Sigauts confirmed, 2016 was similar to 2015 in terms of ripeness, although the ’16 harvest occurred a touch later and delivered wines of more composure, structure, and focus. In the glass, this 2016 Chambolle-Musigny is a luminous ruby-red moving to garnet and pink at the rim, with textbook Chambolle aromas of wild strawberry, red currant, raspberry, wet rose petals, tea leaves, baking spices, and underbrush. It is medium-bodied and blessed with refined tannins which, with a few more years of aging, will bring a silken grace to the texture. Everything is in the right place here—as noted above, it’s impeccably tailored—and that balance will serve it well for aging. This wine is still very young and will drink at its finest from 2020-2025, but should continue to evolve gracefully well beyond that if kept well. However, that shouldn’t keep you from trying one sooner: Just decant it about 45 minutes before serving in Burgundy stems at 60-65 degrees. I’m imagining it paired with the attached Veal and Morel Mushroom recipe and I’m getting hungry (and thirsty) already. It’s a can’t-miss. Enjoy!