For all intents and purposes, you should immediately forget about the “Bourgogne Blanc” designation on today’s label and treat this brilliantly textured and intense Chardonnay like a Puligny-Montrachet or Meursault. Why? Because it’s both! Stationed in Meursault, Fabien Coche owns 20 different plots of Chardonnay in and around the major appellations of the fabled Côte de Beaune; this Bourgogne Blanc hails from his old-vine parcels around Puligny and Meursault.
With traditional farming in place, a judicious use of oak, and extended aging longer than many top names in the region, this Chardonnay is one of the greatest Burgundy deals of the year. I love the tension found in the wines of Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey and Domaine Roulot, and Fabien Coche impressively has similar freshness, perfume, and power. And, with only tiny proportions making it into the states each year, this is one of our most limited Bourgogne Blanc offers ever—we can only provide six bottles per person today at a price that is shockingly less than it should be. This offer will certainly run out quickly, so be sure to take advantage of one of the most underrated white Burgundies ever featured here!
If you’re more of a visual person, glance over the attached family tree to see how Fabien Coche is linked to famous Burgundian domaines like Coche-Dury and Roulot. Everyone else, continue on: In 1940, Julien Coche started with one hectare (under the name Domaine Julien Coche-Debord) and when his son, Alain—a first cousin of Jean-François of Domaine Coche-Dury—came aboard, land ownership grew to a dozen hectares through decades of manual work and wine peddling. At this point, the estate was renamed Domaine Coche-Bizouard. Finally, Alain’s son, Fabien, took the reins in 1998, and for the last two decades, Fabien has impressively managed their 40 parcels of vines—split between Chardonnay and Pinot Noir—in and around the village of Meursault. Equally impressive are their old vines: over 60% of them are pushing past 60 years old! It’s also important to note this family estate has farmed traditionally from the start and Fabien hasn’t missed a beat in that regard.
Though they have parcels ranging from Saint-Aubin to Pommard, their 2015 Bourgogne Blanc is sourced from family-owned parcels in Meursault, Puligny-Montrachet, and Auxey-Duresses. They are known for picking later—as much as seven days—than most other local growers and when they finally harvest, all activities are carried out by hand. In their old-school cellar, a very cool and subsequently long fermentation occurs before aging an astounding 20 months in 25% new French barrels.
Fabien Coche’s 2015 Bourgogne Blanc shows a classic pale straw-yellow core with slight green reflections. Wonderful notes of wet stone, raw hazelnut, pear blossoms, and white flowers are first apparent, but after more air, green apple skin, wet stones, lemon blossoms, candied lime peel, crushed chalk, and delicate accents of baking spices make an intoxicating appearance. Imagine the tension and poise of a live-wire Puligny-Montrachet with the rich seduction of Meursault and you’re in the realm of this impressively low-priced Bourgogne Blanc. There’s incredible balance to this 2015—perfect acidity, rich textures, and layers of complex flavors come in waves from start to finish. It should be noted that Fabien Coche is not a “pop and pour” wine that is built for early drinking—this has serious pedigree and will last 5-10 years should you want it to, but if drinking soon, it can be enjoyed now and it is brilliant after 30 minutes in a decanter. Serve in white Burgundy stems around 55 degrees and pair with this classic scallop and brown butter dish. Cheers!