The amount of praise Big Table Farm has received during their 12 years on the scene outnumbers many wineries that have been around for generations—and they’re on the fast track to being recognized as one of Oregon’s elite producers. Winemaker Brian Marcy leads the charge at this up-and-coming Willamette Valley estate and handcrafts a star-studded cast of down-to-earth, ultra-pure Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays.
Today’s “entry-level” bottling (a terminological disservice to this marvelous wine) blends his top eight Pinot Noir sites throughout the region and his philosophy for this bottle is a much needed breath of fresh air: “It would be arrogant of me to think I could predict which fruit will turn into the best wine,” he says, “so I treat all with equal diligence.” What you’re getting in this Burgundy-meets-Willamette Pinot is pure, Pacific-kissed fruit from Brian’s best sites, all of which are treated with the same level of high-quality care from bud break to harvest. His wines are elegantly rich, poised, and a resounding “yes” to the question: “Can Oregon compete with Burgundy’s finest?” These Pinots have been stunning since day one and whatever pushes you to experience Big Table—be it the adulation of top critics or SommSelect’s endorsement—rest assured, you’ll be delighted once it’s on your table.
With previous positions at high-profile Napa wineries like Marcassin and Blankiet Estate (both of which will set you back a healthy sum), Brian Marcy is no stranger to Napa’s piercing spotlight. But, when he and his wife Clare wanted to expand their “farm”—which in 2005 consisted of chickens running amok in the backyard of their small home—they jointly agreed to move away from Napa’s exorbitantly priced real estate and try their luck in Oregon. They found solace an hour’s drive from Portland, in the small town of Gaston, ideally wedged between the sub-AVAs of Chehalem Mountain and Yamhill-Carlton District. They realized their dream in short order and now their 70 acres and 1890s-era farmhouse is replete with livestock, crops, bee hives, grapevines...they’re running a full-fledged, self-sustaining farm.
But we’re not here to buy meat or honey today, so let’s get to the wine: As mentioned, they craft several different vineyard-designate wines, but their ‘Willamette Valley’ bottling pulls from each one of their eight, volcanic and sedimentary-rich Pinot Noir sites, all of which are located in the central and northern sections of the valley. After hand harvesting, the fruit sees a long, ‘whole-cluster’ fermentation via indigenous yeasts and aging occurs in mostly neutral French oak (20% new) for just under one year. It is bottled unfined, unfiltered, and each rotating, hand-applied label is designed by Clare, a certified jack (queen?) of all trades.
Rule number one for Big Table Farm’s breathtaking Pinot: pull the cork, let it gently pour into a decanter, and allow it to rest for a minimum of one hour before exploring its seductive aromatics. If you love the intoxicating perfume of ripe and elegant Pinot, this is right up your alley, with scents of ripe red and black cherries, juicy wild strawberries, red plum skin, and black raspberry with accent of pomegranate, orange zest, tea leaves, damp earth, crushed stones and a dizzying array of soft baking spices. The palate is medium-plus in body and provides a full-flavored, mouth-coating feel, with soft yet structured tannins and a massive lift of acidity on the finish, bringing everything in balance. This wine is a child genius now, but has the savor and structure to evolve in a positive direction for 5-10 years if kept well. This is a stylish and rich wine that never once loses sight of its graceful side; it has so much to offer as it unfolds in your Burgundian glass around 60 degrees. If you want to go above and beyond (this bottle certainly deserves the added effort) follow the attached sage pork chops and cherry balsamic glaze recipe that is sure to put your entire table in a gastronomic stupor. Cheers!