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Agnès et Didier Dauvissat, Chablis

Burgundy, France 2016 (750mL)
Regular price$24.00
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Agnès et Didier Dauvissat, Chablis

If there is a more enjoyable Chablis at this price, I haven’t been able to find. This delicious, classically crafted Chardonnay comes from a small handful of vines—many of which lie directly behind Grand Cru Blanchot—that were planted by Agnès and Didier Dauvissat several decades ago.
It’s the epitome of village Chablis, with tension and depth typically found in much more expensive wines. And, in 2016, their total production was minuscule, making this not only one of the most enjoyable and affordable Chardonnays of the year, but one that’s in high demand. Any fashionable restaurant worth frequenting should want this by the glass, but there are simply not enough to dole out! Thankfully, our arms are closely linked with Dauvissat’s boutique importer and we have enough of this addicting Chablis for you to purchase by the case today. At such a low price, this should be your new house white: It’s among the greatest white Burgundy values, one that will drink well over the next 5-10 years if kept well. It’s all charm, no pretense, and I find myself craving it more often than any other white this time of year.
As for the name, Dauvissat, well, it’s a common one in Chablis. This isn’t *that* Dauvissat (although Didier previously worked for *that* Dauvissat), but they carry the surname with confidence—their wines are downright delicious and far-more affordable. Founded in 1987 by Agnès and Didier Dauvissat (now run by their son, Florent), this small estate comprises roughly 25 acres of carefully selected, south facing vineyards. Due to their limited range of terroir-expressive wines, the Dauvissat’s farmstead property has attracted its share of critical praise, yet the wines remain under-the-radar and, as a result, mercifully priced. This village-level Chablis is farmed from ~30-year-old vines around the town of Fyé (just behind the cluster of Chablis’ seven Grand Crus) and a small plot within Courgis, a small hamlet just southwest of Chablis proper. After grapes are sorted in the vineyard, they undergo both alcoholic and malolactic fermentation in stainless steel tanks. The wine then ages on its fine lees for 12 months before release, resulting in a precise, high-toned, and delicately creamy Chardonnay. 

The Dauvissat’s new 2016 release shines a brilliant straw-yellow and green in the glass, with aromas of lime blossoms, Meyer lemon, green peach pit, green apple skins, white flowers, and a rather pronounced crushed chalk component with oyster shell salinity. As always, I’d love to have wines from Agnès et Didier Dauvissat turn up in a blind tasting. This is unmistakably Chablis, with a lean and wiry structure—although there is a welcoming ‘roundness’ to the palate—that unabashedly shows bracing acidity. After 30-60 minutes of air, it’s wonderful to drink, just serve around 55 degrees in Burgundy stems. You can also hold this bottle back for several years while it mellows out and tacks on a few extra pounds—it’s your choice! There’s something about the combination of tart green apple fruit, delicate florals, and crushed-stone minerality that triggers an almost Pavlovian reaction—suddenly I’m thinking of a million things I want to eat with it, from sushi to a caper-studded beef tartare to a tangy chèvre. Do I even need to mention oysters...accompanied with a cucumber and lemon mignonette?

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France

Bourgogne

Beaujolais

Enjoying the greatest wines of Beaujolais starts, as it usually does, with the lay of the land. In Beaujolais, 10 localities have been given their own AOC (Appellation of Controlled Origin) designation. They are: Saint Amour; Juliénas; Chénas; Moulin-à Vent; Fleurie; Chiroubles; Morgon; Régnié; Côte de Brouilly; and Brouilly.

Southwestern France

Bordeaux

Bordeaux surrounds two rivers, the Dordogne and Garonne, which intersect north of the city of Bordeaux to form the Gironde Estuary, which empties into the Atlantic Ocean. The region is at the 45th parallel (California’s Napa Valley is at the38th), with a mild, Atlantic-influenced climate enabling the maturation of late-ripening varieties.

Central France

Loire Valley

The Loire is France’s longest river (634 miles), originating in the southerly Cévennes Mountains, flowing north towards Paris, then curving westward and emptying into the Atlantic Ocean near Nantes. The Loire and its tributaries cover a huge swath of central France, with most of the wine appellations on an east-west stretch at47 degrees north (the same latitude as Burgundy).

Northeastern France

Alsace

Alsace, in Northeastern France, is one of the most geologically diverse wine regions in the world, with vineyards running from the foothills of theVosges Mountains down to the Rhine River Valley below.

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