This 1999 cellar release hails from one of the greatest unclassified châteaux in Bordeaux, thanks to a blunder during Bordeaux’s now-famous 1855 Classification: Château Lanessan’s owner felt it to be a marketing ploy, really, an exercise in futility, so the estate did not submit their wine—which, at the time, was considered “Fourth Growth” (and better) quality. Hindsight being 20/20, we can certainly see this was one of the biggest paperwork gaffes in Bordeaux history; nevertheless, it has resulted in an extraordinary price-to-quality today.
Lying just south of Saint-Julien’s borders and adjacent to the famed classified growths Gruaud-Larose, Beychevelle, and Branaire-Ducru, this ‘Left Bank’ château is lauded by critics across the board for the complexities it delivers at such a reasonable price. Compared to the three crus classés listed above, this costs many multiples less while delivering comparably classic Bordeaux pleasure. At nearly two decades old, this perfectly mature beauty, direct from Lanessan’s cellars, is sitting high up at its peak, ready to be opened and enjoyed today. It captures the fine, complex aromas we all search for in traditionally styled, aged Bordeaux at a price that simply makes us say “wow.” Enjoy!
Over the years, Château Lanessan has been rightly celebrated as a source of world-class Bordeaux at a tremendous value. Finding perfectly aged, mature Bordeaux for under $40 is a phenomenon that is quickly disappearing from the market, yet Lanessan represents one of the finest examples out there. Headquartered in the commune of Cussac-Fort-Médoc, within walking distance of Saint-Julien Second Growth Gruaud-Larose, Château Lanessan’s
majestic 19th Century estate sits on a ridge of deep Garonne gravel that creates the terroir-driven tour-de-force in the bottle. They don’t lack the lineage and pedigree of the neighboring châteaux, either: This historic estate was documented as early as 1310, when Henry de Lanessan’s widow sold the property to Sieur de Blaignan. It was later purchased by Jean Delbos, a Bordeaux
négociant, in 1793. It was Jean Delbos’ son, Louis, who failed to submit to the Bordeaux Classification of 1855, but we’re long past pointing fingers. Besides, I would argue they’ve done just fine without it.
The 1999 vintage is a harmonious wine that has become one of the few ‘surprise’ vintages of the last couple decades—many bottles have far surpassed the bar that was originally set for them. Lanessan’s ‘99 came from predominantly Cabernet Sauvignon, followed by a healthy contribution of Merlot and a dash of Petit Verdot—all vines were roughly 30 years old at the time. The fruit fermented in sealed, climate-controlled concrete tanks for several weeks before being racked and then matured in French oak for 18 months. The result is a traditionally crafted Bordeaux that is a snapshot of impressively elegant, yet robust, wine that perfectly showcases its ‘Left Bank’ terroir. Having been undisturbed since its original bottling at the winery, this represents the most pristine condition you’ll find on the market.
Château Lanessan displays a vibrant garnet red core flashing out to a brick orange rim that subtly reveals its 19 years of age. Mature and lively aromas of black and red currant are infused with complex notes of sandalwood, damp clay, cedar, tobacco, dried rose, herbs, and a touch of old leather. The medium-bodied wine glides across palate with fine-grained tannins and a silky mouthfeel full of currants, dried black cherry, crushed gravel, leather, red plums, tobacco, and a hint of baking spices that linger throughout a supremely elegant and fresh finish—it may look old, but it certainly doesn’t taste it! As with most mature Bordeaux, this wine doesn’t need much air, and will drink beautifully from the start. I would advise standing this bottle upright 24 hours prior to opening, then gently pouring the wine off its sediment into Bordeaux stems between 60-65 degrees. If you choose to decant this wine, do so just minutes prior to serving and enjoy within the first couple hours. Match it with a succulent filet mignon and a truffled mushroom ragout and you’ll be on your way to mastering old-school pairings. Cheers!
