The wines of late Burgundian legend Henri Jayer are among the world’s most coveted and expensive, with his Grand Cru Richebourg averaging nearly $16,000 per bottle (that’s higher than Domaine de la Romanée-Conti). Despite breathing such rarefied air, however, Jayer’s approach was simple: make wines “that are good to drink both when young and old.” Philippe Charlopin, an old student-turned-friend of Jayer, also runs on the same motto, and when you learn from one of the greatest wine minds of all time, it causes ears to perk up.
The Charlopins make a range of incredibly profound wines and “La Justice” is one of their greatest offerings in terms of value-for-dollar. It may not be a lieu-dit (classified vineyard) you’re familiar with, but ask any Burgundy expert or Gevrey winemaker and they’ll all point to “La Justice” as one of the prime (and historic) sites of the region. It enjoys a limestone-heavy terroir unlike many others here—Grand Crus included—and with the skilled hand of Phillipe, you’re able to experience pure varietal character and every ounce of earth it has to offer. If this doesn’t make you fall in love with the subtleties of Burgundy, no other wine will—especially at this great price!
In the mid-to-late 1970s, Philippe Charlopin tried his hand as a
vigneron. At the time, he was only renting vines, as his own father had done. He had begun listening to and learning from Jayer, which triggered his first outright purchase (circa 1978) of vines in Gevrey-Chambertin. Philippe’s vineyard ownership continued growing throughout the years, as did his winemaking knowledge, and today it has culminated in more than 60 acres of vines divided into 140 parcels. This includes 12 acres in Chablis—a purchase that came about after his Chardonnay-loving son, Yann, came aboard in 2004. Today, this humble (
and unmistakable) father-son team is eager to wring the most from their supreme terroirs while maintaining sustainable practices in the vineyard.
Charlopin “La Justice” is a unique vineyard parcel located at the northeast border of Gevrey-Chambertin. Though it lies away from the heart of Gevrey’s Premier and Grand Crus, it is situated on a geological fault that allows for a generous layer of limestone that has accumulated over many millenniums. The vineyard as a whole is old, taking its name from the Abbot of Cluny in the Medieval ages, a powerful figure that had total land control in this area. Philippe and Yann’s small parcel here averages 50 years of age and sustainable farming is always implemented during the growing year. In the winey, grapes see a long cold soak and are then fermented with their indigenous yeasts. The resulting wine is transferred into French barrels (25% new) for approximately 18 months. It is bottled unfined.
In the glass, Charlopin’s 2014 “La Justice” displays a deep, dark ruby with a slight pink reflection on the rim. The nose is remarkably singular, unlike most, if any, other red Burgundies in Gevrey-Chambertin: lush black cherry, red and black plums, red currant, forest floor, and crushed stones are intermixed with classic savory black mushroom, red and purple flowers (akin to Chambolle’s perfume), dried herbs, vintage leather, and iron. The ‘masculine’ palate is deep, medium-plus bodied, and brooding; full of rich, ripe berry fruit with a healthy dose of baking spice and minerality. Acidity comes in at a refreshing level and tannins are silky smooth; meaning it’s drinking incredibly well right now, but will continue aging for the next decade and beyond. If enjoying now, decant for one hour and pull out your largest Burgundy stems. Make sure to keep the temperature at 60-65 degrees and let the bottle last for more than one round—it will unfold for hours to come, introducing another earthy note each time you stick your nose in the glass. For a pairing, look to a classic dish, coq au vin, and mix it up by substituting the duck for chicken: it’s a richer and more succulent take. You’ll fall in love!
