First off, it’s important to mention that provenance and storage is of the utmost importance when blue-chip wine is in play: This ‘05 was purchased by a close friend of mine immediately upon release from Rieussec’s cellar and has since been stored (in its original wooden cases) in a dark, extremely cold Bay Area cellar. Conversely, many obscure sources will allow their wines to soak up light and experience temperature fluctuations for years on end, something we avoid by using reliable contacts and paying a premium for certain bottles, like today’s stunning 2005 Sauternes.
Most wine lovers know Château d’Yquem to be the Gold Standard of Sauternes—it was literally granted a class all its own in 1855: Premier Cru Supérieur. However, a few First Growth (Premier Grand Cru Classé) châteaux, like Rieussec, have been known to compete with d’Yquem in their finest vintages at far lower prices. For example, Rieussec was awarded the wine of the year in 2001 (WS)—and deservedly so—but today’s 2005 is a stunning achievement at half the price. It’s an experience for the ages, sumptuously rich in character and soulful at its core. A spectacular phenomenon happens to Sauternes when it hits its prime drinking window, and Rieussec showcases that faultlessly: Secondary aromas have crept in and an opulent honeyed note presents itself alongside saffron and delicately woven spices—yet, somehow, this golden nectar is accentuated by a vivid lift of freshness that keeps its sweetness in perfect harmony. Rieussec’s 2005 is a wine for the ages. It should be revealed at the end of a dinner party or gifted to an extremely dear friend. Keep in mind, this is still in the early stages of its evolution, so if you purchase your limit of six today, you’ll have plenty of time (and occasions) to enjoy it!
Sauternes, of course, is the magical sweet wine of Bordeaux; the best are crafted from a large portion of partially raisined Sémillon, followed by Sauvignon Blanc and Muscadelle. These grapes are left to hang on the vine (usually 6-8 additional weeks) into the cooler autumnal months until they wither and become affected by botrytis, or “noble rot.” In the right conditions, this fungus concentrates the grapes’ sugars by gently breaking down the skin, allowing internal water to evaporate. The guideline “one vine yields one bottle of wine” doesn’t hold true in Sauternes—you’re lucky to get one glass of wine per vine here! During fermentation, yeasts can’t compete with the overload of ultra-concentrated grapes, so they die off before all sugars can be converted. Thanks to residual sugar’s preservative effects and the wine’s elevated acidity, the finest Sauternes are capable of aging decades. This results in the ultimate “meditation” wine; meant to be savored and reflected upon slowly.
A great deal of history surrounds Rieussec, an estate that was first populated by Carmelite monks in the 1700s. However, when the French Revolution reared its head in the late 18th century, it was put up for public sale and, for 200-odd years, swapped hands between elite winemaking families. During this time, it was ranked a First Growth—Premier Grand Cru Classé—in Bordeaux’s renowned 1855 Sauternes/Barsac classification. Fast-forward to 1984 and Rieussec was acquired by powerhouse Château Lafite Rothschild, a company that had the wherewithal to heavily invest in both the vineyards (which cover a whopping 230 acres) and crumbling cellar. Rieussec’s 2005 was vinified in small batches to extract the grapes’ smallest nuances and aged in 50% new French oak for approximately two years—with all used oak coming from Château Lafite Rothschild itself. It was then bottled and laid down for additional rest in their cellars.
Rieussec’s 2005 pours a highly viscous dark gold with amber tones that hug the glass with thick, slow-moving tears. After some coaxing, luxurious aromas ease out: The nose is utterly seductive and rich, showing off apricot jam, ripe quince, candied orange peel, spun honey, caramel, crème brûlée, lemon curd, pineapple, saffron, ginger shavings, and an exotic mix of baking spices. Full-bodied, opulent, and mouth-coating, it unfolds in layers of rich fruit and a burst of freshness that creates a long-lasting finish—if you can stop yourself from taking a second sip! As mentioned, there is no rush to drink this, as it will perform at a high level over the next 15-20 years. It is, however, beginning to enter its prime now and is absolute perfection after 30-60 minutes of air. As far as glassware goes, you can’t go wrong—just choose something you can get your nose into! Began foraging artisanal stores for blue (e.g.
Roquefort) and soft (e.g.
Fontainebleau) cheeses alongside various almonds and dried fruits. This platter will be the perfect accompaniment to your liquid centerpiece. Cheers!
