Today’s extraordinary Premier Cru red is one of the most evocative and downright delicious bottles of Burgundy I’ve enjoyed in recent memory. Every atom overflows with the deep fruit, powerful structure, and inimitable iron-rich terroir that makes Pommard one of the most important Pinot Noir villages in the world.
This wine has it all: a tiny one-hectare monopole, “Clos Orgelot”; a gifted winemaker (Willy Roulendes, formerly of De Montille); and the careful stewardship of one family working the vines in strict accordance with organic and biodynamic principles. Best of all, after seven years of maturation, this wine is on fire right now! In the glass, every aromatic detail and every inch of the palate is singing in perfect harmony. Collectors and drink-now enthusiasts should not miss this undeniably top-tier, extremely classy expression of one of Burgundy’s greatest terroirs.
Clos du Moulin aux Moines burst on the scene in the late 2000s with a lot of flattering press and buzz in the Burgundy community. The property, which dates to the 10th century and was once owned by the Abbey of Cluny, was acquired in 2008 by the Andrieu family, who've ensured that the farming, cellar personnel, and, most of all, the quality of the wines is impressive across the board. However, over the past few years, there has never been enough wine available to sustain a real presence in the US market; as such, the property has remained an insider gem. I visited the estate recently during a trip to Burgundy and was pleased to confirm that all is well at this small property. Strong global demand continues to ensure that only a trickle of this family’s wines arrives in California each year, but from what I tasted and witnessed, the quality of work in the cellar and vines remains unbelievably high. This is an impressive estate that should be on every Burgundy collector’s radar.
Premier Cru “Clos Orgelot” is, as noted above, a monopole, meaning it has only one owner. It is a one-hectare site that sits at 1,000 feet elevation, wedged between its illustrious Premier Cru neighbors in Pommard, “Epenots” and “Les Pézerolles.” Orgelot’s vines date back to the early 1920s, and the iron-rich clay and limestone soil that underpins this site is ideal for producing the savory, muscular, dark fruit-driven Burgundian reds for which Pommard is known.
Today’s 2011 vintage is perfectly mature, erupting from the glass with deep red and black cherry fruit, a cornucopia of meaty and foresty secondary notes, silky tannins, and a long, echoing finish that will stay etched in your memory for days after the bottle is emptied. This is extremely refined, world-class red Burgundy that stands shoulder-to-shoulder with the finest wines bottled in Pommard. While today’s bottle is showing perfectly today, it still has plenty of gas in the tank. I wouldn’t hesitate to continue cellaring for another 5-7 years. It will become more savory and exotic with time, but there is no shortage of energy and fruit to carry it through extended cellar aging. That said, you should not miss out on the power and luster it shows today. Last night I discovered that this is a bottle built for roasted duck! If you have a few hours to devote to this recipe, I highly recommend it. High-class Burgundy and roast duck? You can’t go wrong!
