An old-school producer, yet a relative “newcomer” (they’ve only exported to the United States for a few years), Domaine Chambeyron is the textbook example of elegance and affordability in Côte-Rôtie. The vineyards of this rocky, “roasted slope” cling to 60% grades; are impossible to mechanize; and are exposed to all-day sun in an otherwise cool climate. Where else but the finest sites of northern Rhône can you find these perfect attributes for Syrah?
Today’s wine combines two of the region’s greatest parcels in one bottle of wine: “Chavaroche” and “Lancement.” But Chambeyron’s “La Chavarine” does more than rest on the reputation of its terroir; it comes with a tried-and-true history. This distinguished family tree is rooted deep in Côte-Rôtie (most notably with matrimonial ties to Bernard Levet) and their wines epitomize tradition, finesse, and that singular northern Rhône savor we’ve all fallen head over heels for. After selling out of the 2013 last year and receiving hyper-positive feedback, we stayed in close contact with their importer, and, though we are thrilled to have been granted an allocation of Chambeyron’s 2014, it’s half of what we were previously dealt. It seems the good word about Chambeyron is finally getting out, so snatch up your share while this small quantity and extremely affordable price lasts!
Northern Rhône wine lovers are more than likely familiar with the name Chambeyron. Their proprietor, Bernard Chambeyron, is a cousin to the owners of Chambeyron-Manin (whose wines we’ve offered here as well) and another cousin, Nicole Chambeyron (married to Côte-Rôtie master, Bernard Levet). Despite being a Chambeyron, Bernard wasn’t exactly born into wine—though his great-grandfather was one of the first to replant vineyards in the zone after the devastating phylloxera epidemic in the late 1800s. Bernard’s own father preferred apricots and cherries (both were easier to grow and more lucrative), and the original business was tobacco grown on a windy plateau northwest of the region. Eventually, however, he gravitated to wine, acquiring a parcel of the prized vineyard “La Chavaroche” in 1981. He later snapped up another little prize called “Lancement,” a vineyard planted by his uncle in 1967. They later realized the brilliance that came with combining these two parcels. Today, Bernard’s son, Mathieu, holds the winemaking torch and, thankfully, the house style has remained wholly unchanged.
La Chavaroche is located in the “Côte Brune” (“brown slope”), a sub-section of Côte-Rôtie known for its darker, iron-rich schist soils. Lancement is in the “Côte Blonde” (“yellow slope”), which has a paler appearance due to a higher percentage of granite. Bernard’s typical blend is two-thirds from La Chavaroche and one-third from Lancement—both sites have vines averaging a half-century of age—and unlike many other Côte-Rôtie producers, he uses 100% Syrah in “La Chavarine.” And yet, even without the Viognier, there is a beautifully floral profile that showcases just how elegant and refined Syrah can be. That said, there’s also a touch of earthy rusticity in this wine that places it firmly in the “old school” category. The grapes for “La Chavarine” are pressed, clusters intact, in an old-fashioned basket press before flowing into cement vats for fermentation and a weekly stirring regimen. The wine is then gravity-transferred into large oak vessels (of which only a small percentage are new) for 12-18 months. It is bottled unfiltered.
In the glass, 2014 “La Chavarine” shows a dense ruby tinged with dark purple. There are initial waves of floral aromatics and dark berries, but as it inhales air more scents come into play: red and black cherry, aniseed, a full bouquet of purple flowers, damson plum, wild herbs, leather, black pepper, cigar box, olive tapenade, crushed rock, and exotic baking spices; it’s a potent blend of savory and supple. This is a medium-plus bodied Côte-Rôtie that perfectly balances fruit and earth without overindulging in extraction. Somewhat of a chameleon, it seems black, red, and purple fruits make an appearance alongside brilliant rushes of freshness and minerality. From start to finish, “La Chavarine” is a smoothly layered wine, almost coquettish on the palate. After an hour decant, the wine comes alive, but waiting a bit longer—its fifth birthday—will be even more rewarding. Though this isn’t a Côte-Rôtie that can age a lifetime, I can easily see it lasting until 2030, so don’t devour your share right now! There’s no need to sweat over the pairing for this Syrah: it deserves a simple preparation of lamb chops with chanterelles (shitake can serve as a substitute). The most important tip of all? Enjoy it with your friends!
