For six generations, Château de Beauregard, a distinguished Pouilly-Fuissé estate, has been in the adept hands of the Burrier family. While today’s deep and expressive white Burgundy hails from neighboring Saint-Véran, I’m treating it like the perky younger brother of a top-notch Pouilly-Fuissé—and not just because it’s sourced from estate-owned vines on the fringe of this world-famous appellation.
Beauregard’s current owner and winemaker, Frédéric-Marc Burrier, knows his way around this locale: He makes an impressive range of wines and is responsible for spearheading the recent campaign to establish Premier Crus within Pouilly-Fuissé. (22 vineyards will soon be elevated!) So, if you factor in the prime real estate of his Saint-Véran vineyards, centuries of uninterrupted winemaking, and traditional approaches from vine to wine, today’s $24 price tag is nearly inconceivable. Simply speaking, the Burriers know their way around a fine bottle of Chardonnay and you’d be hard-pressed to find a more pedigreed white Burgundy at this price. This really is a steal.
In antiquity, Mâcon was a major Roman crossroads and an early site of cultivation. In more modern times, the wines of the Mâconnais became known as a less expensive corner of white Burgundy that delivered simple “quaffing” Chardonnay. Over the past couple decades, the appellation has evolved to include serious examples that are garnering well-deserved praise. The greats of Burgundy have also looked to the south as a source of potential, including famous producers like Lafon and Leflaive. Within the southern reaches of Mâconnais, Saint Véran has become one of the most sought-after sources of high-quality, serious Chardonnay—and why shouldn’t it be? Its vines blend right into Pouilly-Fuissé from both the north and the south!
Frédéric-Marc Burrier is equipped with a great résumé—his family has been making wine in the Mâconnais for centuries and they currently run several high-end estates ranging from Pouilly-Fuissé to Beaujolais. Winemaking has always been his dream, made apparent by a dozen-year stretch with powerhouse Louis Jadot until 1999, when he assumed control of Château de Beauregard from his father. With the fortune of taking over a multi-generational, family-owned estate, Frédéric was able to taste wines dating back to the ‘20s—wines his father and grandfather handcrafted. What better way to retain tradition without wrinkling the house style? The Saint-Véran bottling is sourced from 17 acres of sustainably farmed, 30-year-old vines, mostly near the southern border with Pouilly-Fuissé. All grapes are hand-harvested and fermentation takes place in multiple small-batch vats. The wine ages in 50% stainless steel and 50% Burgundian oak barrels for approximately one year before bottling.
In the glass, Burrier’s 2014 Saint-Véran reveals a bright straw-yellow core with flashing green hues that move out to a silvery rim. The nose offers rich notes of yellow apple, pear skin, lemon curd, pineapple core, kaffir lime, yellow flowers, stirred lees, brioche, honeysuckle, crushed rocks, and subtle baking spices. As aforementioned, it’s akin to a younger Pouilly-Fuissé on the palate: dense and richly textured with ripe fruits leading the charge—albeit with elevated levels of freshness. The mouthfeel is very ‘round’ and the wine finishes with a soft kiss of citrus and crushed rock minerality. This Saint-Véran should be enjoyed within the next couple of years and is fully ready to be enjoyed now. Simply pull the cork and let it sit for several hours or decant for 30-45 minutes and serve in large Burgundy stems. This is a beautifully textured wine that would show especially well with a richly sauced seafood pasta. Check the attached recipe and enjoy!