The Rion family has become a household name in Burgundy and it’s largely because of Patrice Rion. He first gained worldwide acclaim after successfully promoting and crafting his family’s wines (Domaine Daniel Rion) in the 1980s and ’90s, and subsequently ventured out to start his own label: Domaine Michèle et Patrice Rion. These wines are extraordinary expressions of pure Burgundy and have ‘wowed’ just about every critic.
Patrice has slowly built up his holdings to include some of the finest terroirs in Nuits-Saint-Georges and Chambolle-Musigny, yet he has one superbly located Premier Cru parcel within Vougeot that we can’t stop buzzing about: “Les Cras.” You’ll feel like an insider when comparing this to the prices of wines from neighboring vineyards! “Les Cras” is adjacent to the Grand Cru “Clos Vougeot,” a few minutes’ walk from from the Grand Cru “Musigny,” and even closer to 1er Cru “Les Amoureuses.” Talk about your prime real estate! Tack on organic practices, a microscopic production (he produces less than 170 cases), and the beautiful concentration of 2015, and you have a prime candidate for one of the most delicious Burgundies of the vintage. We only secured a small allotment and don’t foresee us receiving another; we can allow up to six bottles per person today and I’d advise taking your limit.
The family-owned Domaine Daniel Rion & Fils was created in 1955 with only two hectares in the village of Vosne-Romanée. When Daniel’s children joined the business, one in particular took the most interest: Patrice. As author and Master of Wine Clive Coates noted in his seminal book, “Côte d’Or,” it was Patrice who, at the age of 17, “...decided to put up a notice outside the winery and start selling bottles to passing tourists. In 1973, this was rare in Burgundy.” Starting in the ’80s, Patrice became the winemaker and public face of their domaine. At the turn of the millennium, he and his wife left to expand Domaine Michèle et Patrice Rion—an estate Patrice had originally created in 1990. Since then, his new venture has slowly acquired Premier Cru parcels and widespread acclaim in the press and among sommeliers has followed.
“Les Cras” is one of five Vougeot climats (vineyard sites) that are classified as Premier Cru. It is situated on the northern edge of sprawling Grand Cru of Clos de Vougeot and lies just downhill (~1,000 feet away) from Chambolle’s fabled Grand Cru “Musigny” and Premier Cru Les Amoureuses (a direct border). Limestone and clay are dominant here with some chalk presence—hence the word “Cras,” which refers to these calcareous soils. Note: Patrice Rion also bottles a village-level “Les Cras” from vines in the upper part of the vineyard. Seeing as it bleeds into Chambolle-Musigny territory, it is labeled as such. His vines for today’s Vougeot are averaging nearly 50 years of age and his yields are incredibly low—more so than many Grand Crus. Though uncertified, Patrice follows strict organic practices. Grapes are carefully hand picked and sorted in the winery before fermenting in open-top stainless steel tanks. After three weeks, the wine is transferred into roughly 50% new French oak for 18 months.
In the glass, Patrice Rion’s 2015 “Les Cras” reveals a deep and concentrated ruby core. Brilliant flashes of bright magenta are present while moving out to a light ruby-pink rim. “Les Cras” is a beautiful Burgundy to look at and the nose is absolutely incredible—describing the aromatics hardly does it any justice. Expect highly perfumed, ultra-pure notes of black cherry liqueur, bing cherry, black raspberry, red plum, pomegranate seed oil, red currant, underbrush, freshly cut violet and rose, wild mushroom, wild herbs, crushed stone, and various baking spices. The palate provides intense freshness and concentration—the similarities to the best expressions of the Grand Crus Clos Vougeot and Musigny are thought provoking! Rocky minerality mingles with ripe fruit on an intense, lingering finish and thanks to the warmth of 2015, “Les Cras” has a lush mouthfeel with rounded tannins and a perfect lift of acidity. This is a super complex, nearly full-bodied Burgundy and should be considered one of the highlights of 2015. Expect it to age gracefully over the next two decades and if consuming now, please decant for a minimum of 60 minutes while consuming over the course of 2-3 hours. Please note it is an absolute joy to drink now, but the magic will occur 3-4+ years down the line, most likely peaking around 2025. Enjoy in your largest Burgundy stems next to a rich rabbit stew laden with an assortment of vegetables and herbs. It’s a classic pairing with a breathtaking presentation. Prepare to ‘wow’ your guests. Cheers!
