A large part of our job is finding the truest expressions of the noblest wine grapes from their most classic growing regions. Some offers, however, stand leagues above others and Domaine Chambeyron’s Viognier is the ultimate representation of Condrieu at an astonishing price.
The vineyard of origin for today’s wine is one of the great gems of the wine world: “Vernon” is unanimously considered a top-three vineyard of the region and is the same location where George Vernay makes his world famous (and much pricier) “Coteau du Vernon.” To take it a step further, it’s from 2015— a northern Rhône vintage widely celebrated by vignerons and critics alike (Condrieu superstar Yves Cuilleron even labeled it his finest ever). Chambeyron’s bottle of “Vernon” is a wine that erases the notion that whites can’t match the body and complexity of reds—and it will do so before even gracing your lips. There are few wines in the world that can be identified solely off smell: one sniff of this and you’re taken to a whimsical land of exotic fruits, spices, and floral aromas. It is rich, seductively aromatic, and oozes an inimitably silky yet precise profile. Do not miss this Condrieu—it’s produced from a 1.73-acre parcel, which means we have a dangerously low quantity. Only six per person today, so don’t miss this rare opportunity to experience the epitome of an entire region for less than $50.
By now, northern Rhône wine lovers are more than likely familiar with the name Chambeyron. Their proprietor, Bernard Chambeyron, is a cousin to the owners of Chambeyron-Manin (whose wines we’ve offered here as well) and another cousin, Nicole Chambeyron (married to Côte-Rôtie master Bernard Levet). Despite being a Chambeyron, Bernard wasn’t exactly born into wine—though his great-grandfather was one of the first growers to replant his vineyards in the zone after the devastating phylloxera epidemic of the late 1800s. Bernard’s own father preferred apricots and cherries (both were easier to grow and more lucrative), and Bernard’s original business was tobacco grown on a windy plateau northwest of the region. Eventually, however, he gravitated to wine, and after decades of wild success, Bernard’s son, Mathieu, now holds the Chambeyron winemaking torch. The house style has remained wholly unchanged.
Condrieu is a tiny region of terraced, hillside vines wedged between Saint-Joseph and Côte-Rôtie in the northern reaches of Rhône Valley. Chambeyron’s “Vernon” parcel was planted by the family in 1985 and is rooted in decomposed mica-rich topsoils locally known as arzelle. As mentioned, they own less than two acres, of which is meticulously hand harvested and sorted. Both alcoholic and malolactic fermentation occur in a mixture of steel and concrete vessels and 30 year-old barrels are also introduced during the aging process. Bottling took place in the fall of 2016 and the Chambeyron’s allowed the wine to rest an additional half year before releasing it commercially.
In the glass Chambeyron’s 2015 “Vernon” shines a deep yellow-gold with the slightest hint of green-tinged reflections leading out to the rim. If you’ve never experience the nose of a proper Condrieu before, prepare yourself for seductive, high-toned aromas of honeysuckle, lavender and jasmine oil, ripe quince, orange peel, mango, peach blossoms, apricot nectar, meyer lemon, lime leaf, fresh ginger, crushed stone, and soft expressions of exotic baking spice. The palate is incredibly rich, rounded, and textured; this is an inviting style that quickly coats your mouth and hits every taste bud. Ripe citrus and stone fruits are accompanied by powerful floral notes that dance into an absurdly long, mineral-inflected finish. “Vernon” will certainly age over the next decade if you allow it, but if consuming now, please decant no less than one hour and serve around 55-60 degrees in your largest Burgundy stems. Though creamy fish or chicken dishes would be a wonderful accompaniment for this wine, I’m inclined to push into more obscure territories: filet mignon! Topped with a mountain of buttery crab and clarified butter, you better go on a jog or two before devouring the attached dish—it’s worth breaking a sweat for!
