You all have clamored for it and, quite frankly, I’ve missed having it around the house myself. This wine sold out in record time about six months ago, so we asked—nearly begged—the château for whatever remaining inventory they had. For those who missed it, here’s the low-down: “Cuvée d'Or” from Château Dauphiné-Rondillon is a sweet wine rarity in terms of price and caliber.
It comes from vines that exceed 100 years of age and a painstaking six-week harvest that ultimately produces microscopic yields. In the winery, it undergoes a natural barrel fermentation, lengthy aging in barriques, and is produced in limited quantities. You’ll find many higher-priced (multiples higher) blue-chip producers following this type of demanding regimen, but none come anywhere close to matching this price point. “Cuvée d'Or” has no business being $29 and we can thank the lesser-known region of Loupiac for that, which is right across the Garonne River from Sauternes. It’s a hidden gem producing botrytised wines in the midst of heavyweight appellations and Dauphiné-Rondillon is the absolute standout: elegant, perfectly sweet, and immensely concentrated with aromatics that echo the greatest Sauternes. This isn’t just a glimpse into Bordeaux’s finest sweet wines, it truly is among the best. You can certainly find a more affordable wine on the market, but you’d be searching a lifetime for a bottle that packs in the complexity and depth of “Cuvée d’Or.” We can offer up to a case today. Enjoy!
A bottle of Dauphiné-Rondillon holds a plethora of history, eight generations worth. The very first production of botrytised wines at this Loupiac château can be attributed to Alfred Darriet in 1798. As they continued growing and acquiring key properties in the 1800’s, Monsiuer Jean Darriet made the leap in 1927 and began bottling at the domaine instead of selling bulk wine by the barrel (an industry norm). Following the change, it wasn’t long until success poured in—their wine was even featured next to Château d'Yquem during an honorary lunch for Queen Juliana of the Netherlands! Today, the château is run by brother and sister Jean-Christophe Darriet and Sandrine Darriet Froléon, who are also assisted by a third sibling, Philippe Darriet, a distinguished oenology professor at the nearby University of Bordeaux. The Darriets are also huge advocates for sustainability in the vineyard and have been since the 1950's—they currently hold an impressive level 3 certification from the EU.
The grapes for “Cuvée d'Or” come from a ten-acre parcel that is planted in gravelly, clay-chalk soils on a high plateau. A relatively new addition for historic Bordeaux, the tiny appellation of Loupiac was created in 1936 and it isn’t uncommon to see vines of that age and beyond. Today’s bottling comes from their estate vines first planted in 1910! Upon harvest, the botrytis-affected grapes are picked only when sugars have become extremely concentrated, which requires multiple passes through the vineyard—for them, a minimum of five passes over six weeks’ time. Barrel-fermentation is triggered by native yeasts and aged for 18 months in French oak (10% new). The final assemblage is predominately Sémillon rounded out with Sauvignon Blanc. Production is severely limited.
In the glass, “Cuvée d'Or” is highly concentrated and viscous. The wine glows with a deeply brilliant, dark yellow core and flashes of gold along the rim. Aromas burst out as the wine opens: ultra-ripe quince, apricot, candied peach, dried pineapple, honeycomb, saffron, orange marmalade, and slight spice; all of which all confirmed on the palate. Dense and full-bodied, the wine coats your mouth with immense richness, but ample acidity keeps it lively through and through. There is never a sense of feeling “weighed down.” This is a perfectly mature wine that will age effortlessly over the next 10-20 years and will last for weeks on end after opening (re-insert cork and keep in fridge). I recommend heading to your nearest specialty store and buying their best
Roquefort, a fresh baguette, and high quality butter (
Normandy, if you can find it). This is a classic pairing in Bordeaux: Simply slather the bread in butter, top with a bit of roquefort, then take a bite and follow with a sip of this. Serve and enjoy at the end of a dinner or any special occasion. There’s no better way to indulge. Cheers!
