SommSelect Editorial Director David Lynch celebrates a stellar new release from an old Piedmontese favorite.
Vintage variation in Italy’s Piedmont region isn’t what it used to be—although these days you could say the same of pretty much every wine region on our warming planet. When I was first getting into Italian wine, three great vintages out of 10 in Piedmont was considered a success. Then the ‘aughts’ came along, and with them, an unprecedented run of success (2000-2010 was an amazing decade for Barolo and Barbaresco, with ’02 the only real dud). Still, there are subtle differences from year to year and, as Vinous Media’s Antonio Galloni has rightly pointed out, it does a disservice to both to lump Barbaresco and Barolo together. They’re far enough apart to produce distinct results each year; in the legendary 2010 vintage, for example, Barolo enjoyed more broad-ranging success, but in 2011, a warmer, ‘earlier-drinking’ year, Barbaresco had superior results. In each case, we’re talking shades of gray in two excellent years—but in the case of today’s wine, it’s an important distinction. Given 2010’s reputation, you might not think Castello di Neive could improve on their 2010 “Santo Stefano Albesani” Barbaresco (which we offered to great response last year), but think again: Today’s 2011 has more depth and, tantalizingly, a little more accessibility in its youth than the 2010. It still has the firm, high-toned structure Castello di Neive wines are known for, but it offers a more complete preview of what it will become with a few more years of cellaring—namely, a resolutely classic, complex, perfumed Barbaresco to rival your best red Burgundies under $50. Don’t miss this!
Neive is one of the three principal villages of the Barbaresco DOCG (the others being Barbaresco itself and Treiso), and “Santo Stefano” is arguably its most important single vineyard (if Italy had such rankings, it’d surely be classified ‘Grand Cru’). In 1964, the Stupino family acquired the namesake castle in the heart of what’s called Neive Alta (upper Neive)—the old, fortified, hilltop part of a commune that has since expanded to include a lower-lying surrounding area as well. Among the several parcels of land that came with the castle was Santo Stefano, which at that time lay mostly fallow; the Stupinos developed the site into the world-famous cru it is today, all the while continuing to sell grapes to the legendary Bruno Giacosa for his bottling from the site (that wine, Giacosa’s flagship, is one of the most sought-after collectibles in the Italian wine market, fetching prices that sometimes exceed those of Grand Cru Burgundies). Initially, the Stupinos just farmed the vineyard, not releasing their first Castello di Neive wine from the site until 1971 (Giacosa’s first was 1964).
Santo Stefano is technically part of a larger vineyard called Albesani (thus the shout-out on the label here). It is a centrally located slice with a perfect full-south exposure and the classic limestone/clay soils of the zone. The Stupinos have a predominance of old vines here, with most having been planted in the 1960s and early ‘70s, and their winemaking style is resolutely traditional—apart, perhaps, from employing a relatively short maceration on the skins (12 days) during the initial fermentation. Only large, used, 35-hectoliter barrels of French Allier oak are used for aging; this wine saw two years’ aging in those barrels along with another year in bottle before release.
In my experience, Castello di Neive has always epitomized the classic characterization of Barbaresco as being the “queen” to Barolo’s “king”: theirs are very high-toned, spicy, more feminine takes on the often-ferocious Nebbiolo grape. These are bright and floral wines with brisk acidity and fine-grained tannins than can occasionally be austere in their youth. But if there’s ever an occasion where the Nebbiolo-Pinot Noir comparison seems apt, this is one of them: other than the cultural similarities, I don’t always see the kinship between Barbaresco/Barolo and Burgundy. Here I do—this is Nebbiolo at its prettiest and most perfumed, and the 2011 offers the added benefit of being more drinkable right now; the tannins are a little silkier than is typical here.
Having also now enjoyed a few years of bottle age, this 2011 is just starting to reveal its charms and is clearly headed for greatness. In the glass, it’s a light to medium garnet red with hints of bricking at the rim, with a perfumed nose of dried black cherry, blood orange peel, black raspberry, black tea, dried porcinis, rose petals, baking spices, and leather. On the palate, it is brisk and lively, melding sweet and savory in that inimitable Nebbiolo way—deep cherry fruit and woodsy underbrush notes take turns in the spotlight. This is classically structured Barbaresco, and it’s as much about acidity as tannin—the tannins are present, for sure, but not ferocious; more than anything it’s the acidity in this wine that’ll give it a long life. I have no doubt that it’ll go 10-20 more years with ease. If consuming now, decant it one hour before serving in your nicest Burgundy bowls. Ideal service temperature is 60-65 degrees, and some rib-sticking food will bring out the best in this bottle: try it with an old-school beef braciole and put its fat-cutting qualities to work. That’s a spectacular Italian dinner you won’t soon forget. Cheers!
— David Lynch
