Odds are, when you hear “Lebanon” and “wine” in the same sentence, your mind shoots to Château Musar (if anywhere). Well, here’s another name to know: Château Belle-Vue. Family-owned and founded in the aftermath of the Lebanese civil war, Belle-Vue is not only an homage to ancestors who farmed here for centuries, but also a leading representative for the growing renaissance (hence the wine’s name) of quality producers that have emerged following the war.
When Belle-Vue first entered the scene with their inaugural vintage in 2003, it won Gold Medal Best in Class at the International Wine & Spirits Competition and they haven't looked back ever since. I attribute that to their unwavering passion and ultra-traditional style: Like other old-school producers (and a select few restaurants), Château Belle-Vue holds wines in the cellar until they feel they’re ready to drink—2009 is their current release! To have that level of patience and loyalty is largely unheard of in a society that now demands immediate returns (Bordeaux could take a page out of Belle-Vue’s book). Imagine a top wine from a warm Saint-Émilion vintage and you’ve got Renaissance. For longtime subscribers, you may remember the ’07 we offered years ago. I’ve been tapping the importer’s shoulder ever since, and we finally secured a batch of this 2009—dive in!
“Renaissance” hails from the cradle of ancient vine cultivation (along with Georgia and Iran). Lebanon, known in biblical times as the of land of Canaan, was exporting wines to Egypt as early as the 2600 BC and is believed by many to have been the source of the Phoenician religion’s Dionysus, the precursor to Rome’s God of Wine, Bacchus. Due to decades-long volatility in the region and a civil war from 1975 to 1990, Lebanon’s wine industry was forced to take a lengthy hiatus. Today, a band of talented producers is proving, once again, that one of the world’s oldest grape-growing regions is capable of producing world-class wine.
Naji Boutros, owner and founder of Château Belle-Vue, left his home in Bhamdoun at the age of 17 during the onset of the civil war. After two decades, he traveled back home with his wife (Jill) and children, resolute in returning his family’s land to its agrarian roots. His village, Bhamdoun, is a half-hour east of Beirut and near the entrance to Bekaa Valley (where Château Musar and most other wineries are located). Their estate vineyards stand on hallowed ground for Naji: Their first planted vineyard stands on the soil of his grandparents’ Hotel Belle-Vue, which served as the family residence when war hit. Although the structure did not survive the war, the vineyard upholds the family’s agricultural roots and the winery bears its name. Naji and Jill also have a large presence in the community—they built a library for the community; employ locals at harvest; run a B&B and restaurant for tourists; and a dollar goes toward a local child’s education for each bottle they sell.
Naji and Jill practice organic viticulture and dry farming while maintaining incredibly low yields. Though temperatures can reach ultra-high levels here, the key is to have vineyards at higher elevations—Belle-Vue’s rise to nearly 4,000 feet! This incredible mountain terroir provides unique minerality, a virtually disease-free environment, and excellent diurnal shifts. Their grapes are always hand harvested and varieties are kept in separate batches until blending. Fermentation occurred with natural yeasts in stainless steel tanks and aging took place in new French Oak for 24 months. After a final blend, the wine aged in bottle for a whopping five years before its commercial release.
The 2009 “Renaissance” displays an opaque dark garnet core with brick orange reflections leading out to the rim. The nose is lavish, initially showing off crème de cassis and anise, followed by blackberry, dried red and black plum, huckleberry, black cherry, purple wildflowers, pipe tobacco, cigar box, sage, exotic spiced tea, crushed rock, and a rich array of bakings spices. Prepare for a mouth-coating experience—it’s incredibly rich, delivering endless layers of sweet black and blue fruit on the palate. The superb presence of lifted acidity and lingering minerality, however, keeps this from entering jam-like terrority. Now approaching a decade of age, this wine has entered its window and is a hedonistic joy to drink. For the best experience, decant for 30-45 minutes and serve in Bordeaux stems at 60-65 degrees. Pair next to this rich take on baby back ribs. The brown sugar glaze is the proverbial cherry on top. Cheers!
